Living with Horses in the Snow

 We get snow.  We live in a "snow belt".  After two feet the snow is deep.  Real deep.  Then it gets up the horse's elbows (horses are 17-hand warmbloods).  Even with Global warming, we get lots of snow and now unfortunately ice in the winter.  How dealing with the snow and ice is not difficult.

Experts say to keep the horses off the fields.  They do not mean our fields.  Our fields are covered in snow. Lots of snow.  Not just a sprinkle.  By feeding the horses in the fields I no longer have manure and mud in the paddock in spring breakup.  The field is fertilized by the best and reseeded.  horse manure, fresh is great for feeding fields.  It is full of nitrogen and nutrients.  the hay the horses eat reseeds the pasture with grasses we want.   A win-win situation.  

The horses come into the paddock for salt and water or to pass through to another pasture.  hay is put out in the other field. No dealing with horses wanting to leave (they learn to stay in when the gates are open because they are always led out, and food is coming in).  Location for the hay is changed every time a bale is put out to give the horses a clean area to eat.  It is not as good as forking the hay and using a calf sled to move the hay.  Using the tractor to put out hay is a lot easier than forking.  

Moving around in winter keeps the horses fitter.  Keeps them occupied so they do not self-entertain. And distributes the manure.  

Plowing out the gates ensures they will open and horses can get in and out.  At some point, gates need to be scraped down.   Plowing and scraping by the water supply lower the packed snow so the horses are not drinking below ground level. 

the horses will be fine with temperature drops and cold temperatures because they have the freedom to choose where to be.  they have unlimited hay which is usually placed to shield them from the north wind.  The north wind is the coldest wind.  that is why loafing sheds in the north face south.  On a sunny day, the horses stand in front of a stand of evergreens, broadside to the sun.  

On warm winter days, the horses will move into the trees to be cooler.  Or not.  It is their choice where to be.  Food is usually nearby.  

A

n insulated stock tank is easy to achieve by glueing, nailing or screwing rigid foam insulation onto thin plywood.  Half the top is covered to help the stock tank heater.  Living in cold areas means the water will freeze.  The horses do need water in winter.  Eating snow is not an option.  

 Either run extension cords and hose out to the stock tank until a line can be put in.  Or situate the water close to power and a hydrant by changing the fences is another option.  It depends on how much you have to spend at this time.  Using a garden horse is torture as draining it and dragging a long hose into the basement gets old fast.  It is surprisingly cheap to have a water line dug with an electrical line a few feet above.  One can get a backhoe in or rent a ditch witch.  The backhoe probably would be cheaper in effort and money if you get an experienced operator.  In winter and even summer, you will consider the money well spent.  

If you use electric fencing do NOT desensitize the horses to the fence.  In winter the fences will not be hot unless you have positive and ground on the fence.  And the snow doesn't cover the fence.  And the horse is not wearing a blanket.  And the horse touches both strands.  It is easier to keep the horses away from the fence.

Horses that are afraid of electric fences stay away.  This means no injuries.  It is up to the human to encourage the horse to stay away from the fence.  No salt, no feed, no water, nothing that will attract the horse should be within 10 feet of the electric fence. Water is a challenge.  Board fencing near the water will stop the current from jumping into the water.  You will know there is an electrical issue when all the horses won't drink.  There is always at least one that is more cautious.  That is the one you watch.

Deep snow is great for horses.  It is fun to ride in.  The horses learn to move from behind galloping around in the deep snow. They develop the correct muscles.  Legs are kept cool by standing in the snow.  Swellings go down, legs tighten, and ligaments and tendons become a lot stronger.  Their living area is clean.  The world is beautiful, especially on a sunny day.  Keep horses outside, in a field with access to different terrain, shelters and friends.

Snowclearing the Farm

 We have snow and cold in our winters.  As long as you have the equipment (tractor to clear the snow, heated water for the horses, electricity to heat the water for the horses, shelters for the horses) winter is not that bad compared to what other people have.  Tornados, hurricanes, landslides, mudslides, mud, earthquakes, volcanos erupting etc.  Our winter will happen. It will snow.  Snow will get deep.  Winter will be long.  Even with Global Warming, the winter is long.  Sometimes not as cold as it should be but then we get snow. ice, and sleet.  It is just awful.  No sun, either. We can always count on our winters being long, snowy, and cold.  

Predictability makes it easy to set up for winter.  With the tractor, we can clear the gates, clear a path to the barn and water and put hay out into the field.  With each winter show clearing machine, we have been able to clear more snow than ever.  This means, of course, that the actual snow clearing time has remained the same.  Because we can foresee what the winter will be it made decisions on machinery buying easier.

Our first winters here we had a 30-inch walk-behind snowblower and shovels to clear the driveway.  No gate access.  No barn access.  We were snowed in, or out if you prefer for the duration of the deep snow.  This was also when the snow was fence high, as well.

The purchase of a  1975 135 Massey Furguson with a bucket and snowblower meant more area to clear and the ability to buy round bales as the number of horses living here increased.  I am not sure which came first: round bale or horses.  Clearing to gates enabled me to take a horse out for a winter ride (bareback, of course).  Riding in deep snow is fun.  It is a good way to learn to grip with your lower leg in order to stay on the bounding horse.  The hay was forked to the horses which was great.  Fresh snow meant a clean place for the horses to eat.  By always putting the hay on the deep snow the living area 

became bigger.  Until the next snow.

The round bales got bigger.  the 135 could only push the bales.  Slow feeder haynets came out.  the Massey was able to move the bales by pushing down the driveway and into the field.  It could flip the bale over but it was a challenge.  The round bales I was buying got bigger than ever which necessitated buying a new tractor.

the 70 horsepower Kubota is four-wheel drive and can go just about anywhere.  Getting it stuck is scary. It moves the 1200 to 1400 pound hay bales easy.  It moves the snow so now clearing involves plowing into the field so the horses can be fed way out.   The driveways are wider.  The horse trailer is kept clear of snow (in case of Vet emergencies) as is the hay trailer.   Live is good with a 70hp tractor.  It even has a cab (heated and air-conditioned).  The radio is kept off as the tractor wouldn't start when temperatures went down (below 0F, 20c).  It is plugged in all the time so starting is easy.  

Having more access makes winter riding more interesting and gives more choices.  If ever the barn catches fire the fire department can drive around the barn.  Not the arena.  The drifting on the south end is incredible.  Some year I will figure clearing or preventing the drifting.  I am hoping the loafing sheds that should be built further south will make a difference.  The trees I have planted in the South Field keep dying.  The only one that survived wasn't in a crucial place.  I could add a snow fence.  

Keeping drifting snow in control is a science.  It can be done. The Government of Canada has information as does Alberta Government.  (links to come).

Does My Horse Really Need Her Teeth Done Every Year?

 Inside Xena’s mouth Inspect the mouth prior to floating.   Note the wolf tooth at the top and uneven wear of her teeth.  Xena lives on grass and hay. She was just 2 years old.

Checking Petra’s teeth by sliding jaw back and forth

Marigold is sedated but standing. This is usual for most dental procedures. The speculum enables Dr Green to work.  The sling holding the head makes it easier to work. (Petra)

 Does My Horse Really Need Her Teeth Done Every Year?

                                    B. KInsey

 

Equine teeth.  Ugh.  Not a fun way to spend my money.  But in the end, the welfare of the horse is most important so teeth get done annually.  All the horses.  I am lucky as my horses live outside and eat grass and hay.  

Horses coming in for training, in particular, should have a recent dental exam (AAEP).  Research and science have changed the techniques of doing teeth as well as the recommendations for frequency of having dental work. (Lane, 2016).  Frequent tooth care will also enable the veterinarian to fix problems that are developing, rather than established  (AAEP); If the problem has been established for years the veterinarian may not be able to correct the issue or it will take several sessions. (Easley, 2013;  AAEP) 

 Checking Petra’s teeth by sliding jaw back and forth

Working inside Petra’s mouth.  Her teeth had only a few problems.  She wasn’t keen on the procedure but accepted it with good grace (which at this time was unusual for her).  

I have since found it is better to have teeth checked annually or semi-annually. (Lane, 2016;  Easley, 2013; AAEP; USDA, 2020; Fowler, 2021).  Annually for a horse grazing and eating hay, semi-annually for a horse kept in a stable as the kept horse is not able to feed at will and is usually fed softer food eg grain.  (AAEP)

In the old days, before power floats only the front molars were worked on.   I had never seen incisors filed, either.  I feel for my poor horse, especially the horse that pulled like a train. (AAEP; USDA, 2020) I thought it was my poor riding.  Now I think he had teeth issues that were not being addressed because the problem was further back. (Easley, 2016; AAEP; USDA, 2020))  Pulling helps with pain, sometimes.   Try it sometime. Frequently having his teeth floated helped to some extent.  As he got older the pulling lessened.  Was it my riding or was it his teeth issue was fixed?  He did not have any of the indicators of needing his teeth done at any time, except the pulling.

Older horses tend not to need floating as often as younger horses.(Lane, 2016;  AAEP; USDA, 2020) The horse has lived long enough that teeth issues are not a problem but older horses may lose teeth or develop periodontal disease. (Lane, 2016;  AAEP; USDA, 2020) Older horses have different issues that need to be looked for. (AAEP; USDA, 2020). If the horse does have a problem with deformed teeth for caps not removed, broken tooth preventing wear on the opposite tooth, etc the veterinarian may not be able to fix the problem. ( Easley, 2013; AAEP; USDA, 2020)

Youngsters between 2 and 5 years of age have the greatest changes in their teeth. (Lane, 2016; Easley, 2013; AAEP; USDA, 2020, McFarland, 2020) Or even foals should be inspected that the teeth are coming in as they should. (AAEP; USDA, 2020) The AAEP website lists procedures for the horse according to age.  This list should be useful for horse owners.  Yearlings, as well, need to have teeth checked and corrections, if necessary, made. (AAEP, USDA, 2020). Caps that have not fallen off will affect the horse and the permanent teeth. (Easley, 2013; AAEP; USDA, 2020)

Breeders tend not to select for a good mouth.  Horses with long faces have enough room for teeth, whereas short wedge faces do not, (McFarland, 2020; Fowler, 2021).  

Use time rather than behaviour to decide whether a horse requires dental care. (AAEP; USDA, 2020; McFarland, 2020) Schedule your visit, or the veterinarian’s visit, well in advance so you know it will be done at about the same time every year.  It needs to be done, so do not wait.  The time will be good for you and for your veterinarian.  

 Stoic horses will not show discomfort but will suck it up. (McFarland, 2020, Fowler, 2021) Other horses that tend to be reactive will let you know there is a pain issue happening,  Changes in the horse are important to note.  Behaviour, temperament, habits may indicate a tooth issue. (Lane, 2016 ;  Easley, 2016; AAEP; USDA, 2020) It is best not to wait for your horse to show a dental problem as it might have been happening for a while. (McFarland, 2020; Fowler, 2021).  Horses cannot show pain. It is for survival. (Fowler, 2021)

 

Annual or semi-annual dental checks by a veterinarian are part of keeping a horse. (AAEP; USDA, 2020)  If your veterinarian finds a problem so much the better as the issue is only 12 months old.  Much better than dealing with something that has been going on for many years.  (Easley, 2013, AAEP; USDA, 2020; McFarland, 2020)

 It is good to know how the teeth are doing and a good preventative measure. The best way to know what is happening inside a mouth is by sedation to keep the horse steady rather than flinging her head around to avoid anyone having a look inside. (Lane, 2016).

 A speculum will keep the horse’s mouth open wide enough for a good look. (Lane, 2016;  Easley, 2016). It also enables the veterinarian to work easily. (Easley, 2016)

 Water pack holds water for rinsing and keeping the teeth cool during the floating process

Indicators of Horse needing Dental Work

• Cuts on tongue and cheeks
• Won’t open mouth for a bit
• Slobbering
• Teeth grinding
• Crooked in the poll, head, neck (and maybe the rest of the body)
• Parrot mouthed (congenital) or undershot
• Resisting bit pressure (asking for bend or flexion, turning one direction, etc)
• Dropping half-chewed hay
• Hay dropped in balls (quidding)
• Losing weight
• Bad breath
• Sinus drainage
• One-sided nasal discharge
• Broken or cracked tooth
• Caps have not come off molars
• Poll tense (horse doesn’t let you touch it)
• Behaviour changes:  teeth could be a reason
• Head shaking
• Blood tinged saliva
• Unchewed grain in manure
• Pulling
• Slow eating
• Reluctant to drink cold water
• Oral ulcers
• Broken phalanx from crooked teeth
• Skeletal deformities
• Bit chewing (chomping)
• Tongue hanging out
• Bucking
• Swelling on the face
• Storing food in the cheeks
• Slurping when eating
• Loss of teeth
• Loose teeth
• Not eating
• Holding head crooked
• Reluctant to eat hay
• Swollen or distorted lips
• Tooth displaced
• Food between teeth
• Head shy
• Bumps along the jaw
• Lives in a stall or paddock
• Fed grain
• Colic

(Lane, 2016, Easley, 2016; Easley, 2013; AAEP; USDA, 2020, McFarland, 2020; Fowler, 2021)

  

Fascinating to see inside the mouth.  The horse did have some cuts on her cheeks.

Use time as an indicator of the necessity of getting teeth checked.

References

__________The Importance of Maintaining the Health of Your Horse's Mouth

https://aaep.org/horsehealth/importance-maintaining-health-your-horses-mouth

Easley, J., Abnormal Tooth Eruption in Large Animals, December 2o13, modified June 2016, https://www.merckvetmanual.com/digestive-system/dentistry/abnormal-tooth-eruption-in-large-animals

Easley, J., Congenital and Developmental Anomalies of the Mouth and Dentition in Large Animals,  December 2013, Modified June 2016, https://www.merckvetmanual.com/digestive-system/dentistry/congenital-and-developmental-anomalies-of-the-mouth-and-dentition-in-large-animals

Easley, J., Irregular Wear of the Dentition in Large Animals,  Reviewed/revised December 2013, modified June 2016, www.merckvetmanual.com/digestive-system/dentistry/irregular-wear-of-the-dentition-in-large-animals

Easley, J., Overview of Dentistry in Large Animals, Review/revised December 2013, modified June 2016, https://www.merckvetmanual.com/digestive-system/dentistry/overview-of-dentistry-in-large-animals

Fowler, V., Why do Horses Need their Teeth Tending To? What about Those in the Wild? Eurodressage, Mon, 06/14/2021 - 16:58https://www.eurodressage.com/2021/06/14/why-do-horses-need-their-teeth-tending-what-about-those-wild

Lane, T. J., Dental Care of Horses, https://www.merckvetmanual.com/management-and-nutrition/health-management-interaction-horses/dental-care-of-horses

McFarland, C., Proper Equine Dental Care: More Than Just "Floating" Teeth, July 28, 2020,  https://www.farnam.com/stable-talk/proper-equine-dental-care

USDA, 2020, Basic Dental Care for Horses, January 20, 2020, https://horses.extension.org/basic-dental-care-for-horses/ 

More Interesting Reading

Check out this website:  https://www.burwashequine.ca/blog/2017/1/11/what-happens-to-wild-horses-that-dont-get-dental-care

https://equusmagazine.com/blog-equus/straight-wild-horses-mouth-researchers-compare-captive-dental-53111

Fowler, V., Why do Horses Need their Teeth Tending To? What about Those in the Wild? Eurodressage, Mon, 06/14/2021 - 16:58https://www.eurodressage.com/2021/06/14/why-do-horses-need-their-teeth-tending-what-about-those-wild

Four things You Can Do to Make Handling Your Horse Easier

 Horses are not born trained.  They are born to eat, watch out for danger, and have babies.

Humans are generally not interested in watching their horse eat, have babies or have their horse run from danger.  Humans want horses to ride or drive or obey signals, as seen in liberty work.  They use horses to do many things.  The horse usually doesn't have much say in what happens in human/horse interactions.

Dakota, a wild horse in captivity

The change of the population from being farm-raised to living in town makes a huge difference in how the person may handle a horse.  Farm-raised people have experience with animals.  They know that animals have a different agenda than people.  Farm people also know that animals can really hurt a human.  Either deliberately or accidentally.

Town people have watched TV, learned about animals, and maybe had a dog or cat while growing up.  Television leaves out unpleasant things or anthropomorphizes animals.  Thank you, Walt Disney.  

Horses are big. They are strong.  They have a particular way of thinking because they are prey.  This means alertness and the ability to move fast from danger is essential for survival.  Even though the horse has been domesticated for a few hundred years.  Breeders have been bred for specific characteristics.  Some are not conducive to being calm, sensible, etc. etc. Compare photos of wild horses to domestic horses, and you will see.  In the wild, being flighty is not good because the horse will use up too many calories.  Calories lost in winter can make the difference between survival or not.  A horse running from fear may not watch where she is going and could get hurt, making the horse vulnerable to a predator.  It is easier to hunt/kill an injured horse or youngster than a healthy horse.

So, what can a person do to make handling their horse safer?

1.  When working in the field or paddock, ask the horse to move.  

Do not walk around the horse.  Move the horse out of your way.  

2.  Tie your horse and leave it for an hour to 3 hours.  Your horse can eat hay. Ignore the pawing. Do not say anything. Ignore the pulling and dancing around. When your horse stands still, then you can say something.  It is best to find something to do while letting the horse learn to stand quietly.

Tie to something solid with a halter and rope that will not break. have about 3' slack. Not enough, the horse can reach the ground.  (put a leg over the rope). At wither height at least. Not lower.  Your horse will have to stand quietly at some point.  Standing quietly in the trailer is best learned by being tied to a post first.

3. Lead your horse on a slack lead.  

The head is in front; you are just in front of the shoulder. This is a safe place to be. Don't choke your horse with a death grip.  Use a rope halter if your horse tends to go where she wants.  If a rope halter doesn't work, you have taught your horse to pull through and to ignore you.  Not a good thing. 

4.  No, it is not an option.  

If your request is reasonable, your horse should do it.  Standing for the farrier is reasonable.  Allowing the vet to work is valid.  (temperature, heart rate, teeth check, touching a body part etc.).  It can take some time to convince the horse to go, but in the end, the horse goes.  Otherwise, don't ask if no is an option.

5.  Keep your horse in a herd, with room to run. The herd discipline will make handling your horse easy. Do not accept having your horse repeatedly chase another horse or be chased.  That is not nice.  

more information

TRTmethod.com. Tristan Tucker. on YouTube also

"Unleashing Harmony:The Man Who Dances With Horses" on Slice Wild on YouTube. (Frederik Pignon)

Raising your horses back: An Easy Way

 Getting your horse's back to rise/round-up is a dream many riders have.  It feels so good when you feel it.  Here are some simple easy to do on your own methods.

I owned (and bred) a long backed horse.  She had a 9 canter!!  Wonderful to sit when I was fit.  When I was fit because  her stride was so long.  My back had to keep moving forward.  Because Gracie had a long back she was trained with her head low (about wither level) so that she would not drop her back. This is not only for long backed horses by the way, but for all horses.  Head up is only for showing. (in dressage).  If your horse is naturally on the forehand (very low head carriage) it will help if the horse is ridden with a higher head carriage.  Ride according to your horse's conformation.  

Living outside in hilly pastures helped her move with her back up.  It is the easiest way to get a horse moving from behind (and therefore the back raised).  Horses raised on the hilly ground will learn to step up and underneath themselves as they move around the pasture.  Give them a year or 6 months.  Watch when the horse trots up and down the hills.  The hindleg will step more forward, the hindquarter muscles will flex.  The head and neck will be down as well.  Not the exaggerated to the knees down, but around wither level. Lower if the horses are on a steep hill (then most likely will be walking).  

Stepping forward and underneath their body is what raised the back.  Look for a hindleg being the first to step forward.  

Watch your horse move around the pasture.  (this is why you want your horse in a pasture for hours and hours and not in a paddock that is only an acre big or smaller.  Your horse won't move as much).  Which leg steps forward first from a halt?  Front or hind? (thank you, Alex Wortmann, I remember this lesson).  Which leg stops first? Front or hind? It should be the hindleg.

When your horse suddenly stops which is more comfortable? stopping on front legs or hindlegs.  This is why when your horse stops suddenly you either sit comfortably or get tossed around.

Physio for the Sore backed horse

 October 2020

Frankie's Sore Back and Therapy

Used for vaulting mostly at a walk, with some trotting by students that are supple and have progressed from Ziva and Miss July

Diagnosed with possible kissing spines

To receive Previcoxx once a day for 60 days

Purchased October 2019 halter broke only

Indications of trouble

misstepping at walk on any leg, which gradually became worse over time

cannot cross hindleg in front of over and past the leg in turn on forehand, working

not stretching down at trot or walk.  Poll is lower than at trot or canter

refusing to leave stall to work

no flinching at touch to her back

sore in the back where a rider would sit 

Muscles of back raised on each side

Muscles on croup are developed (not through in the back)

Does not over track at walk

canter hindleg does not come under rider's seat

naturally high headed

back hollow

not moving from behind

difficulty stepping over cavalletti on lowest

Physio Programme

30 minutes minimum of lungeing at walk, trot, some canter (as her canter needs to slow and balance better) per day

walking forward at walk, working from behind:  wearing a neck stretcher to encourage her to lower her heard.  Neck stretcher does not hold her head down but to make it incomfortable to be inverted. 

slow trotting to encourage her to lower her head.  Able to drop to knee level for 2/3 strides after 1 week of work

leaving stall willingly

not standing still to have tack adjusted (feeling better about moving?)

She will have trot over cavalletti on lowest setting to see how steps over (in stride, not hitting the cavalletti with a toe)

To improve canter will lunge over jumps (cavalletti set at highest point). Be sure not to jerk her when she lands or shortly after.  Punishing the horse for doing what you want is counter productive.

Diary

Oct 29 Judy Hyde came out to work on her.  Hips locked, sacrum tight, withers locked which would cause nerve pain/stumbling, 

Frankie December 2019 training to be ridden

Today (Oct 30) cantered disunited which she has done in many months. Did not change on her own so brought back to trot.  would also do canter to halt transitions when asked for canter/trot transition.  Able to do halt trot transition

3 weeks after diagnosis

2 days off.  Walking through the snow (about 8" on the ground"

Snow is an excellent exercise tool.

able to step over the cavalletti at walk and trot without hitting sometimes. Reaching to step over rather than taking a stutter-step (was seen at a walk and trot previous week)

Bent to inside on the circle on both reins.  

working from behind  Hindlegs first to stop and to move off.  

The left hind swings out and landing outside of the front hoof on a circle.

Able to cross in front of the hind leg when doing a turn on the forehand

Standing quietly to be tacked and untacked.

Able to catch easy

 A wool blanket was used for warming her muscles before working.  Kept on during work so her back muscles don't chill.  Wool is used because it is warm even when wet

counter bending on a circle is shown by lunger/person inside the circle able to see the outside jawbone

Photos from fall 2019 showing posture

good stretch: he is able to do this on the lunge for 2/3 strides at walk and trot after 2 weeks

Note lower neck muscling

note muscling on her croup

has soft lumps on left front knee

Update

September 2021

X rays in August showed lots of arthritis in her knee.  In the front and behind in the joint.  Dr. Green speculates she was in a bad wreck.  She had arthritis in an area horses don't get arthritis in the knee (behind the knee joint).  She also has a big scar at the top of her leg.  When we got her she would not let people touch her hindquarters. She kicked.  Did not stand quietly.  

Frankie has been excellent in lessons. Very kind. Attentive to the rider/vaulter.  Sensible.  She is young (11 years old) so we decided to inject her knee.  She will be mostly pain-free for another year or so.  

It is such a shame.  She improves every lesson it seems.  Her mind is so good.  Her body is developing 

very nicely.  

.  

An easy way to load a horse for the first time without help

 I learned how to load my horses into a trailer because my "helper" always rushed the horse.  The rush caused anxiety in the horse which tarnished their view of trailering forever.  The first experience is the most important.  Rushing doesn't help.

Here are the steps I take when loading my horses for the first time or subsequent times.  

1.  Park the trailer on level ground.  You don't want a step-up trailer with the back higher than the front.  With a ramp, you want the ramp level.  A moving ramp doesn't inspire confidence.  Would you go up something that sagged under your weight?

2.  Move the centre partition over.  tie it to one side.  No, you don't have to open the escape door at the front.

Slant load trailers should have the partitions locked to the side.

3.  Bring the horse towards the trailer in a straight line.  Do. not come at an angle.  It gives the horse an option to not go forward.

Where the horse stops to look at the trailer is where you start training.  Hopefully, it won't be 50 feet away (I have had that).  Stop the horse, reward. food works.  Food the horse prefers is better.  I use alfalfa pellets or cubes, but as a friend said, her horse won't piaffe for alfalfa.  But they will for carrots or apple bits.  Keep the treats small.  1" by 1".  frequency is important.  Waiting for the horse to chew and swallow a carrot takes forever.

Ask for 1 step towards the trailer.  The horse is facing the trailer, not allowed to look away.  Focus on the job on hand.  Reward the one step.  Repeat until you are at the trailer.  

If the horse is backing away or thinking of running away, circle away.  You have gone too fast to get to this point.

4. At the trailer allow the horse to sniff.  Hopefully, the trailer will have Eau du Cheval.  If not add manure to the trailer.  Eau du sheep won't help. or goat or pig. Reward the horse for sniffing.

5. Ask for 1 step.  Reward.  When asking for the step forward release the pressure on the lead rope. Slack but not lots of slack as you want the horse to face the trailer. Take your time.

6. Ask for another step. Stop reward. If the horse offers more steps go for it.

7. Ask for another step.  Stop reward.  If the horse offers more steps go for it.

8. If your horse decides that has been enough and wants to leave you can give the unload command. I sue "unload" and circle around and start over again.  If you can stop the backward motion (ideal), stop it.  

9.  Once you have the horse into the trailer, but not all the way in:  do NOT ask faster.  Continue the ask, reward when the horse responds.

10.  Do up the bum bar if all went smoothly and your horse has hauled previously with a good experience.  If not unload the horse.  I pull on the tail and say "unload".  Repeat the loading process again.  You should be able to do the bum bar up with a horse new to loading this first session.  If the horse is young wait until the next time you have a loading session.  The entire session should take 5 minutes.  If your horse has manners, accepts being told what to do, trusts you, and you have not rushed the process.  Quit now.  If time is important you can repeat in an hour or so. Or the next day or the day after.

The secret is I use a rope looped through the tie ring or chest bar at the front of the trailer. I use a stick or dressage whip that is about 3' long to tap the horse.  Teach the horse to respond to the tap on the side and croup before you use the trailer.  Teach your horse to step forward to a pull on the halter before you have the trailer ready for loading.  Most horses that are trained will respond to the touches and pull on the lead rope.  The release of the pull on the halter is the reward.  Stop pulling when the horse steps, or even thinks of stepping.  If you cannot do this don't even think of loading your horse into a trailer or anything.  

Tap for 1 step, or pull lightly on the lead rope.  release only when the horse thinks or does steps forward.  This is most important. If you do not release your horse will resist.  

Gather up the rope as your horse steps forward.  If your horse has an issue with the rope touching legs then stop the loading and train your horse to accept being touched on the legs.

Once your horse is in the trailer, do up the bum bar. take off the long rope.  You can use the long rope for unloading if your horse zips off.  You will still have the horse in "control".  Don't slow the horse down if rushing off the trailer.  You will only cause a panic attack.

To unload. Pull on the tail and say "unload". Reward for each step back.  If your horse will not unload, then wait. Pushing, pounding etc won't get your horse off any faster.  reward the horse once off the trailer.  

That's it.  It won't matter if you train in a straight load or angle haul.  Your horse will load willingly into either trailer.

You can use just the stick and throw the lead line over the neck of the horse. Have a second lead line for control. 

If you train with the long rope, you will have to use it until your horse loads without it.  It might take a while even if you haul weekly.  The good news is that your horse will step into the trailer as soon as you put it on.

Rearing, backing up, kicking, refusing:  do happen.  Just wait. the horse will settle down.  Reward what you want, ignore what you don't want.  If your horse has a long history or even a short one of not doing as asked the sessions will increase and be more dramatic. That is a handler issue.  

Benefits of teaching a horse to load this way

It is fast.

It is without drama.

The horse doesn't object and will be more willing the next session.

You don't need a helper.  If you do have a helper that person can offer the food reward when the horse is in the trailer through the escape door.

Safe. Walking in with the horse can leave you injured or bruised.  Maybe not this horse or this time.  being in an enclosed, small space with an unhappy horse is not fun.

Previous Skills the horse needs prior to Loading in Trailer Session

A.  Touch Aids

1. Stepping forward to a pull on the halter. No vocal command.

2. Move when touched at the side and croup. No vocal command.

3. Move sideways when touched on the hindquarter for doing up the partition.

4. Teach the horse to do one step.  It makes doing the bum are up easier. The command is "one step"

B.  Voice Aids for Loading

1. Good boy/girl, or a cluck when the horse responds.

2. Load up 

3. One step

4. Unload

Reward

1. Food in the beginning sessions.  Food the horse particularly likes eg carrots for a faster response.

3. Release the pressure on the lead rope

4. Stop tapping.  (this means you keep tapping until the horse moves.  You can change the frequency or the intensity of the taps to elicit a response.  You might want to go back and school the horse on responding to taps.)

5. Scatches at the withers, tail head.

Warning

1. Do not stand directly in front or behind the horse. Always stand to one side.  

2. It is best not to have a helper.  

When driving off

Wait until the horse has been in the trailer for a few or 5 minutes.  Finish loading up with whatever you are bringing once the horse is loaded.  Do up the bum bar.  Wait for a few minutes then close the door.

When you get where you are going. Let the horse stand for as long as possible before opening the back door.  And again before unloading.  It is safer if your horse waits in the trailer than tied to the outside or worse holding the horse.  All the time.  Every time.  Guess how horses that dance around in the trailer were trained to do this?

If your horse kicks, scrambles, doesn't want to load.  Change your driving.  You are too rough.  Put sand on the mats first, then sawdust/shavings on top.  Every time you haul.

Dry out under the mats after every trip.  Replacing floorboards is not fun or cheap.