Sunday 10 June 2018

Winter Pasture for Horses



Winter Pasture for Horses:  A Great Option for Winter Feeding


  Feeding horses in winter in Canada is an expensive proposition. Care for your horse will depend on temperatures, precipitation (type and the amount), and wind.  Each region has its own challenges.  Horse owners looking to keep horses outside, in a healthy environment that is also a benefit for the land and easy.  Look at winter pasture as a viable option. 

Roughage, usually grass or hay, is the most important feed for horses.  Digesting roughage keeps horses warm. Some years are difficult getting quality roughage.  Rain, too much or too little at the wrong time, too cool temperatures all make haying a challenge.  Add the cost of fuel, equipment, getting labour, exporting hay, and other crops that pay better:  these all add to the difficulties for a horse owner to affordable acquire hay.  

One option, researched extensively throughout North America, is leaving cattle on pasture all winter.  It can be either grass or a cereal crop, or grass specifically grown for winter feed;  the grass or cereal crops can be left standing or swathed.  Another term for saving feed out in the fields for winter feeding is "stockpiling".   

"In the fall plants accumulate non-structural carbohydrates (NSC) as a way to maintain itself over winter.  Where the NSC is stored will depend on the plant.  For instance, timothy stores its NSC in a corm under the ground.  Some plants are better at storing NSC than others.  Timothy is a good winter pasture grass as it is tall and tends to hold is Water Soluble Carbohydrates well,” explains Grant Lastiwka, P.Ag, Grazing/Forage/Beef Specialist of Alberta Ag Info Centre. 

Grant says,  "Just last weekend (January 19 weekend) I was snow blowing and found the grass underneath the snow to be still green and alive.  This is because the NSC acts like an antifreeze to prevent cell damage.  If the snow insulates enough and the NSC are high enough cell integrity are maintained.  It can even regreen in the spring and regrow from leaves, and tillers (plants within the plant) for a very early quick spring green up and growth." 


  What is needed for winter pasture 

  A fenced area with long grass (hay field or a pasture allowed to grow from mid-July to frost) is needed.  A water source, with electricity for the heater, and shelter (stand of 
B.Kinsey                   Winter Pasture     2

trees or shed).  Access to the field during the winter for putting out hay.  Do not expect the horses to paw through 60 cm of snow and do well.  Monitoring the horses condition and health.  Strip grazing, using electric fencing, can minimize wastage.   Moving fencing in three feet of snow may be a bit daunting.


  Pros of Winter Pasture

  The benefits of keeping a horse out in pasture for the winter are numerous.  The horses keep themselves fit moving from eating to sunbathing spots, to water, and back to the food.  Their bones and soft tissues strengthen using low impact, low intensity, long duration exercise.  All horses have equal access to feed. All the horses should be in good condition.  The horses are happier because they have the freedom to move, such as they are designed to be.  There is less bullying as the lessor horse can keep away from the dominant horse. The field is thinly fertilized and reseeded.  The next year (and subsequent years) grass crop will grow thickly and lush.  Harrowing the field will not necessary (as long as supplemented hay is spread out) in the spring.  


  Supplementing with Hay

 At some point in the winter, the field may run out of grazing or have so much snow that expecting the horses to paw for forage is ridiculous.  Put hay out in the field, again spread out so that field and horses get maximum benefit. Unroll round bales to spread manure and hay seeds;  it will, also, ensure all horses can eat their share.  Feeders pack the ground, concentrates the manure and wastes hay.  Lessor horses may not be able to eat their fill or eat in peace.


 Care of the Horses at Pasture

 A nutrient analysis of the grass will give information on the quality of grazing.  Supplementing may be necessary depending on analysis results and the horses condition, age, and body type.  Check the horses over looking for signs of injury, lameness, or just different normal.   When looking at body condition, remember there will always be at least one horse that does well.  Look at the lesser horses in the herd for condition.  Hooves need trimming.    Snow will not wear down hoofs.  Ideally, horses are barefoot for being out in the pasture. 

 The cons of keeping horses in winter pasture
 A longer walk out to see if the horses if you are not able to call them in. Haying may be a bit of a challenge.  It all depends on facilities, location and planning.  Hoping for the best does not work.

Take a page from ranchers.  Turn your horses out.  Top seed with no effort from yourself. Get incredible grass.  Keep your horses fit and sound, and healthy.  Spend your time having fun with the horses instead of on the tractor.  Enjoy walking among the herd.









References:

Grant Lastiwka, PAg
Grazing/Forage/Beef Specialist
Alberta Ag-Info Centre
Agruicultre and Rural Development
201 Provincial Building
5030-50 Street
Olds, Alberta  



Winter Grazing Options, February 2008, Manitoba Agriculture, Food and Rural Initiatives, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, and Manitoba Forage Council www.mbforagecouncil.mb.ca  and at www.manitoba.ca/agriculture
ww.agr.gc.ca/env/greencover-verdir
or phone 1 866 844 5620

 Harper, Dr. Frederick, Extension Specialist, University of Tennessee, Department of Animal Science, 
Winter Horse Feeding,  Voice, 2004



Feeding a Balanced Ration for competition horse


Excerpt from my Feeding assignment from Equine Nutrition through University of Guelph


I chose to use a Ration Balancer with the hay so that the horse would be eating as much hay as possible. He is in a stressful situation when competing and travelling therefore, at great risk to develop gastric ulcers, tying up or colic. Ideally, he would be on free choice hay at all times. Being able to eat hay constantly will ensure his well being. If necessary hay can be increased to 3% of his body weight or so. It is currently calculated at 2% of his bodyweight.


The ration balancer is being fed to offer vitamins and minerals he will not be getting in his hay. It is a concentrated feed and to be fed in small amounts, according to the bag’s instructions. The bags instructions for feeding must be followed so daily requirements for food, vitamins, and minerals are met. As completion season progresses the horse’s feed will be reevaluated to ensure all nutrients needs are met. The ration balancer can be increased another .5 kg.
Ration balancer required for the time away will be easy to transport. The hay will not be. Additional hay should be available for sale at the competition and can be blended in with the hay from home.

He is living outside without shelter in a field so hopefully he is getting a rainsheet or flysheet put on to protect him from the elements or the field is large enough that natural elements will provide some protection from wind and sun. It is spring and the temperatures are reaching 15o during the day so care must be taken as there is no shelter/building while he is at pasture. Monitoring his water and weight should be done regularly so that changes can be dealt with before problems develop.

Simplicity in feeding will ensure the staff follow feed instructions as the horse is boarded. The ration balancer can be fed either by the owner after the horse has worked or the staff can give it to the horse an hour after he is brought in.

I did not use the other options as the more complicated the less likely it will be done. Keep it simple and the horse will get what he needs. Purchasing, storing, and travelling with the feed will be easy as it is one bag. The hay provides most of the daily nutrients in excess of minimum daily amounts while the ration balancer provides the lacking 

Equine Parathyroidism: Too Much Phosphorous


Equine Parathyroidism:  Too Much Phosphorous
Barbara Kinsey


Introduction
Equine Parathyroidism is a recognized disorder in horses (Little, Redding, Spaulding, Dupree and Jones, 2000). It is also known as Miller’s Disease, or Big Head (Petalia, 2009, Kentucky Equine Research, 2013).  It is caused by feeding cereal grains without balancing the phosphorous (Crabbe, 2013) The feeding of processed feeds rather than the stable manager mixing grains has decreased the incidence of parathyroidism in horses.  Research into feeding horses has helped educate the managers of horses so that they are aware of the necessity of balancing feeds (Little, Redding, Spaulding, Durpree and Jones, 2000).

Define the problem
Too much phosphorous in the horse’s diet which will result in health issues in a period of months.  Pastures may be high in phosphorous.  This may be a result of chemical fertilizer applied to the fields (Crandall, 2016)  Wheat bran contains ten times more phosphorous than calcium. (Lenz, 2016).  A diet low in Vitamin D is also attributed to causing Secondary Parathyroidism (Capen & Rossel, 1989;  Sojka, et al, 2014).  A low calcium:high phosphorous ratio  in the feeding of the horse (Veterinary Treatments and Medications for Horsemen, 1977;  David, et al, 1997;  Little et al, 2000;  Kentucky Research Staff, 2013) causes this problem.  Feeding cereal grain, which is high in phosphorous without balancing with a high calcium feed will cause  secondary  parathyroidism in horses. (Veterinary Treatments and Medications for Horsemen, 1977) 



Clinical Signs of an Excess of phosphorous/Secondary Parathyroidism
The bones become weaker as the calcium is depleted.  Lameness, swelling in the bones and bone formation issues.  The horse may have a stiff movement (David et al. 1997)  The horse may have many little fractures in the long bones (David et al. 1997).  

The skull of the horse will show changes, which is where the “Big Head” name comes from. (Little, et al, 2000).  The horse may have trouble chewing due to changes in the skull configuration (Norton, 2013, Petalia, 2009)

Diagnosis is only after a other causes are ruled out.  A feed analysis, x-rays, bone density, and other tests are done to determine that the problem is caused by too much phosphorous (David et al, 1997).  


Management Strategies
Feed a balanced diet.  Attention must be paid to the calcium:phosphorous ratio.
Balance alfalfa with wheat bran or grass hay (forageplus staff, equisearch staff).  Beet pulp is balanced with bran by adding twenty-five per cent bran immediately prior to feeding. (Equisearch staff)  Grass is balanced in most areas.  In the Prince George area  grass hay is analyzed at 1:1 calcium:phosphorous. (Best, 2016).  In the UK, grass analysis shows a high calcium content (forageplus.co.uk).  Another method for avoiding a calcium phosphorous imbalance would be to restrict cereal grain by feeding hay.  Most horses do not require cereal grain added to their diet as they are able to maintain their condition (a Body score of 4-6 would be good).  Adding bran to working, growing or lactating mare’s diets would ensure that the calcium phosphorous levels are close to the ideal. (forageplus.co.uk staff)

Wheat bran contains an average of 2.4 grams of phosphorous per 220 kilograms of weight. (minimum of 1.71 grams to a maximum of 3.5 grams per 220 kilograms).  (forageplus.co.uk)

Offering a vitamin A, D, and E in the winter months will help.  Horses in Canada are not exposed to enough sunshine during the winter. (People need to supplement Vitamin D in winter as well).  Find out what minerals are deficient in your area.  (Crabbe, 2013, Crandell, 2013, Larson, 2015)



References

Best, C, DVM, in conversation with, November, 2016

Capen, C.C. and Rosol, T.J. (1986). Calcium-regulating hormones and disease of abnormal mineral metabolism.  In Kaneko, J.J. (ed.): Clinical Biochemistry of Domestic Animals, ed. 4. San Diego, CA:  Academic Press, pp. 678-752.

Crabbe, B. DVM, (2013)  Horse Health:  Vitamins and Minerals, http://www.equisearch.com/article/horse-health-vitamins-and-minerals-13326?ctid=2

Crandell, K. November, 2016, in conversation with

Crandell, K, (April 11, 2013) Vitamin D in Equine Diets, http://www.equinews.com/article/vitamin-d-equine-diets

David, J.B., Cohen, N.D. and Nachreiner, R (1997). Equine Nutritional Secondary Parathyroidism. The Comendium, 19(2), 1380-1388.

Norton, J. VMD. (2013). Your Horse’s Endocrine System, http://equimed.com/health-centers/general-care/articles/your-horses-endocrine-system

Equisearch Staff.  (2005), Feeding Brans. http://www.equisearch.com/article/feeding-brans?ctid=2

Forageplus Staff.  Should I feed bran to my horse.  https://forageplus.co.uk/feeding-wheat-bran-to-my-horse/


Kentucky Research Staff. (2013). Prevent nutritional secondary parathyroidism in horses.  www.equinews.com/article/prevent-nutritional-secondary-hyperparathyroidism-horses.

Larson, E, June 18, 2015, Do blanketed horses get enough vitamin D?http://www.thehorse.com/articles/35953/do-blanketed-horses-get-enough-vitamin-d


Little, D., Redding, W.R., Spaulding, K.A., Dupree, S.H., and Jones, S.L. (2000). Case report: unusual presentation of nutritional secondary parathyroidism in a paint colt. Equine Veterinary Education, 12, 6, 297-302

Petalia, (2009) Big Head (Nutritional Secondary Parathyroidism). www.petalia.com.au

Sojka, J., van der Kolk, H. and Toribio, R. (2014) Endocrine:  hyperparathyroidism. Vetstream Equis.

________Veterinary Treatments and Medications for Horsemen, Grapevine, Texas: Equine Research, 1977








Making a Wooden Vaulting Barrel

16 - 1 x 3" boards glued and nailed on


1 x 3 boards laminated to make the legs

16 boards were used plus 2 for each leg
1 x 3 boards, 5' long nailed and glued into place onto 4 pieces of plywood cut identically

shape could be rounder, not as wide this is 2' x 2'
4  1" plywood pices:  2 ends, 2 in the middle
glued 1 x4 boards for the legs Handle is coming off as it is not needed for moving the barrel


Making a Wooden Vaulting Barrel


Materials

1- 1' or ¾ " plywood  
16 - 1x3" boards
2 - 2x4' boards (unless using left over 1 x 3 boards)
wood glue
12 carriage bolts (⅜" by 3 ½ ") to attach the legs
nails:  2" common


Tools

hammer
saw
wrench or ratchet

Procedure

1.  Cut 1x3 boards to 60"  (be accurate so you don't have to trim)

2.  Have a skilled woodworker cut the plywood into an arch shape.  must be identical,  Cut 4 arches:  20" diameter by 20-24" tall (2 ends and 2 middle supports) (sides rounder than the one in photo)
2' wide is a bit too wide for comfort

3.  Glue and nail the 1x3 boards onto the plywood.  A gap can be left, which will happen on the curves.

4.  Cut 2x4 into 4' lengths (or shorter if you want a short vaulting barrel)

5.  Attach legs to each end of the barrel on the inside:  angled for stability
     • At least 6" attached to the end of the barrel
     • Drill holes for the bolts (plywood end and 2x4).
     • Nuts go to the inside.  3:  staggered up the board.


Cover

• 1" or ¾" foam (seat foam is very dense and durable) 60" long.  Duct tape can be used to join the foam to make wider.  Duct tape did not come off easy.  I attached narrower pieces on the lower sides so that the joins were not in a high stress area.
• Cover foam with fabric:  outdoor furniture fabric, boat cover, thick vinyl..feels nice, has a tight weave
  • Tack around the edge of the barrel to hold into place
  • from the centre on both sides out to the ends, alternating the sides tacked.  1 tack on each side of the ones already in place
  • must be pulled tight as you can, no wrinkles
• velcro with stick on one side was attached to the foam and barrel on the ends, middle so the fabric could be pulled tight.  Worked very well.
• Fabric (dense, outdoor fabric that had a nice feel) was stretched over the barrel and tacked into place with fabric tacks
• The barrel end could be covered so it looks nicer

or sew a seam around the end edges, thread a cord through and pull tight.  Add webbing straps at the sides to pull tight under the barrel

• Cover wood with carpetingc• velcro with stick on one side was attached to the foam and barrel on the ends, middle so the fabric could be pulled tight.  Worked very well.
• Fabric (dense, outdoor fabric that had a nice feel) was stretched over the barrel and tacked into place with fabric tacks
• The barrel end could be covered so it looks nicer

Handles

• Buy vaulting barrel handles from Skyline Vaulting in Langley, BC   (easiest)
• Attach with tie down straps, attach to barrel to stop twisting. (grommet and screw)

Notes

• 1x3 boards that are unplaned would be better than planed boards. (thicker)
• Carrying the barrel at the bottom edge of the barrel is easier than attaching handles
• Wheels on one end make it easier to move by one person

Not tippy, seems to be sturdy enough when 11 year old boys are jumping on it and with multiple kids