Four things You Can Do to Make Handling Your Horse Easier

 Horses are not born trained.  They are born to eat, watch out for danger, and have babies.

Humans are generally not interested in watching their horse eat, have babies or have their horse run from danger.  Humans want horses to ride or drive or obey signals, as seen in liberty work.  They use horses to do many things.  The horse usually doesn't have much say in what happens in human/horse interactions.

Dakota, a wild horse in captivity

The change of the population from being farm-raised to living in town makes a huge difference in how the person may handle a horse.  Farm-raised people have experience with animals.  They know that animals have a different agenda than people.  Farm people also know that animals can really hurt a human.  Either deliberately or accidentally.

Town people have watched TV, learned about animals, and maybe had a dog or cat while growing up.  Television leaves out unpleasant things or anthropomorphizes animals.  Thank you, Walt Disney.  

Horses are big. They are strong.  They have a particular way of thinking because they are prey.  This means alertness and the ability to move fast from danger is essential for survival.  Even though the horse has been domesticated for a few hundred years.  Breeders have been bred for specific characteristics.  Some are not conducive to being calm, sensible, etc. etc. Compare photos of wild horses to domestic horses, and you will see.  In the wild, being flighty is not good because the horse will use up too many calories.  Calories lost in winter can make the difference between survival or not.  A horse running from fear may not watch where she is going and could get hurt, making the horse vulnerable to a predator.  It is easier to hunt/kill an injured horse or youngster than a healthy horse.

So, what can a person do to make handling their horse safer?

1.  When working in the field or paddock, ask the horse to move.  

Do not walk around the horse.  Move the horse out of your way.  

2.  Tie your horse and leave it for an hour to 3 hours.  Your horse can eat hay. Ignore the pawing. Do not say anything. Ignore the pulling and dancing around. When your horse stands still, then you can say something.  It is best to find something to do while letting the horse learn to stand quietly.

Tie to something solid with a halter and rope that will not break. have about 3' slack. Not enough, the horse can reach the ground.  (put a leg over the rope). At wither height at least. Not lower.  Your horse will have to stand quietly at some point.  Standing quietly in the trailer is best learned by being tied to a post first.

3. Lead your horse on a slack lead.  

The head is in front; you are just in front of the shoulder. This is a safe place to be. Don't choke your horse with a death grip.  Use a rope halter if your horse tends to go where she wants.  If a rope halter doesn't work, you have taught your horse to pull through and to ignore you.  Not a good thing. 

4.  No, it is not an option.  

If your request is reasonable, your horse should do it.  Standing for the farrier is reasonable.  Allowing the vet to work is valid.  (temperature, heart rate, teeth check, touching a body part etc.).  It can take some time to convince the horse to go, but in the end, the horse goes.  Otherwise, don't ask if no is an option.

5.  Keep your horse in a herd, with room to run. The herd discipline will make handling your horse easy. Do not accept having your horse repeatedly chase another horse or be chased.  That is not nice.  

Raising your horses back: An Easy Way

 Getting your horse's back to rise/round-up is a dream many riders have.  It feels so good when you feel it.  Here are some simple easy to do on your own methods.

I owned (and bred) a long backed horse.  She had a 9 canter!!  Wonderful to sit when I was fit.  When I was fit because  her stride was so long.  My back had to keep moving forward.  Because Gracie had a long back she was trained with her head low (about wither level) so that she would not drop her back. This is not only for long backed horses by the way, but for all horses.  Head up is only for showing. (in dressage).  If your horse is naturally on the forehand (very low head carriage) it will help if the horse is ridden with a higher head carriage.  Ride according to your horse's conformation.  

Living outside in hilly pastures helped her move with her back up.  It is the easiest way to get a horse moving from behind (and therefore the back raised).  Horses raised on the hilly ground will learn to step up and underneath themselves as they move around the pasture.  Give them a year or 6 months.  Watch when the horse trots up and down the hills.  The hindleg will step more forward, the hindquarter muscles will flex.  The head and neck will be down as well.  Not the exaggerated to the knees down, but around wither level. Lower if the horses are on a steep hill (then most likely will be walking).  

Stepping forward and underneath their body is what raised the back.  Look for a hindleg being the first to step forward.  

Watch your horse move around the pasture.  (this is why you want your horse in a pasture for hours and hours and not in a paddock that is only an acre big or smaller.  Your horse won't move as much).  Which leg steps forward first from a halt?  Front or hind? (thank you, Alex Wortmann, I remember this lesson).  Which leg stops first? Front or hind? It should be the hindleg.

When your horse suddenly stops which is more comfortable? stopping on front legs or hindlegs.  This is why when your horse stops suddenly you either sit comfortably or get tossed around.

Physio for the Sore backed horse

 October 2020

Frankie's Sore Back and Therapy

Used for vaulting mostly at a walk, with some trotting by students that are supple and have progressed from Ziva and Miss July

Diagnosed with possible kissing spines

To receive Previcoxx once a day for 60 days

Purchased October 2019 halter broke only

Indications of trouble

misstepping at walk on any leg, which gradually became worse over time

cannot cross hindleg in front of over and past the leg in turn on forehand, working

not stretching down at trot or walk.  Poll is lower than at trot or canter

refusing to leave stall to work

no flinching at touch to her back

sore in the back where a rider would sit 

Muscles of back raised on each side

Muscles on croup are developed (not through in the back)

Does not over track at walk

canter hindleg does not come under rider's seat

naturally high headed

back hollow

not moving from behind

difficulty stepping over cavalletti on lowest

Physio Programme

30 minutes minimum of lungeing at walk, trot, some canter (as her canter needs to slow and balance better) per day

walking forward at walk, working from behind:  wearing a neck stretcher to encourage her to lower her heard.  Neck stretcher does not hold her head down but to make it incomfortable to be inverted. 

slow trotting to encourage her to lower her head.  Able to drop to knee level for 2/3 strides after 1 week of work

leaving stall willingly

not standing still to have tack adjusted (feeling better about moving?)

She will have trot over cavalletti on lowest setting to see how steps over (in stride, not hitting the cavalletti with a toe)

To improve canter will lunge over jumps (cavalletti set at highest point). Be sure not to jerk her when she lands or shortly after.  Punishing the horse for doing what you want is counter productive.

Diary

Oct 29 Judy Hyde came out to work on her.  Hips locked, sacrum tight, withers locked which would cause nerve pain/stumbling, 

Frankie December 2019 training to be ridden

Today (Oct 30) cantered disunited which she has done in many months. Did not change on her own so brought back to trot.  would also do canter to halt transitions when asked for canter/trot transition.  Able to do halt trot transition

3 weeks after diagnosis

2 days off.  Walking through the snow (about 8" on the ground"

Snow is an excellent exercise tool.

able to step over the cavalletti at walk and trot without hitting sometimes. Reaching to step over rather than taking a stutter-step (was seen at a walk and trot previous week)

Bent to inside on the circle on both reins.  

working from behind  Hindlegs first to stop and to move off.  

The left hind swings out and landing outside of the front hoof on a circle.

Able to cross in front of the hind leg when doing a turn on the forehand

Standing quietly to be tacked and untacked.

Able to catch easy

 A wool blanket was used for warming her muscles before working.  Kept on during work so her back muscles don't chill.  Wool is used because it is warm even when wet

counter bending on a circle is shown by lunger/person inside the circle able to see the outside jawbone

Photos from fall 2019 showing posture

good stretch: he is able to do this on the lunge for 2/3 strides at walk and trot after 2 weeks

Note lower neck muscling

note muscling on her croup

has soft lumps on left front knee

Update

September 2021

X rays in August showed lots of arthritis in her knee.  In the front and behind in the joint.  Dr. Green speculates she was in a bad wreck.  She had arthritis in an area horses don't get arthritis in the knee (behind the knee joint).  She also has a big scar at the top of her leg.  When we got her she would not let people touch her hindquarters. She kicked.  Did not stand quietly.  

Frankie has been excellent in lessons. Very kind. Attentive to the rider/vaulter.  Sensible.  She is young (11 years old) so we decided to inject her knee.  She will be mostly pain-free for another year or so.  

It is such a shame.  She improves every lesson it seems.  Her mind is so good.  Her body is developing 

very nicely.  

.  

An easy way to load a horse for the first time without help

 I learned how to load my horses into a trailer because my "helper" always rushed the horse.  The rush caused anxiety in the horse which tarnished their view of trailering forever.  The first experience is the most important.  Rushing doesn't help.

Here are the steps I take when loading my horses for the first time or subsequent times.  

1.  Park the trailer on level ground.  You don't want a step-up trailer with the back higher than the front.  With a ramp, you want the ramp level.  A moving ramp doesn't inspire confidence.  Would you go up something that sagged under your weight?

2.  Move the centre partition over.  tie it to one side.  No, you don't have to open the escape door at the front.

Slant load trailers should have the partitions locked to the side.

3.  Bring the horse towards the trailer in a straight line.  Do. not come at an angle.  It gives the horse an option to not go forward.

Where the horse stops to look at the trailer is where you start training.  Hopefully, it won't be 50 feet away (I have had that).  Stop the horse, reward. food works.  Food the horse prefers is better.  I use alfalfa pellets or cubes, but as a friend said, her horse won't piaffe for alfalfa.  But they will for carrots or apple bits.  Keep the treats small.  1" by 1".  frequency is important.  Waiting for the horse to chew and swallow a carrot takes forever.

Ask for 1 step towards the trailer.  The horse is facing the trailer, not allowed to look away.  Focus on the job on hand.  Reward the one step.  Repeat until you are at the trailer.  

If the horse is backing away or thinking of running away, circle away.  You have gone too fast to get to this point.

4. At the trailer allow the horse to sniff.  Hopefully, the trailer will have Eau du Cheval.  If not add manure to the trailer.  Eau du sheep won't help. or goat or pig. Reward the horse for sniffing.

5. Ask for 1 step.  Reward.  When asking for the step forward release the pressure on the lead rope. Slack but not lots of slack as you want the horse to face the trailer. Take your time.

6. Ask for another step. Stop reward. If the horse offers more steps go for it.

7. Ask for another step.  Stop reward.  If the horse offers more steps go for it.

8. If your horse decides that has been enough and wants to leave you can give the unload command. I sue "unload" and circle around and start over again.  If you can stop the backward motion (ideal), stop it.  

9.  Once you have the horse into the trailer, but not all the way in:  do NOT ask faster.  Continue the ask, reward when the horse responds.

10.  Do up the bum bar if all went smoothly and your horse has hauled previously with a good experience.  If not unload the horse.  I pull on the tail and say "unload".  Repeat the loading process again.  You should be able to do the bum bar up with a horse new to loading this first session.  If the horse is young wait until the next time you have a loading session.  The entire session should take 5 minutes.  If your horse has manners, accepts being told what to do, trusts you, and you have not rushed the process.  Quit now.  If time is important you can repeat in an hour or so. Or the next day or the day after.

The secret is I use a rope looped through the tie ring or chest bar at the front of the trailer. I use a stick or dressage whip that is about 3' long to tap the horse.  Teach the horse to respond to the tap on the side and croup before you use the trailer.  Teach your horse to step forward to a pull on the halter before you have the trailer ready for loading.  Most horses that are trained will respond to the touches and pull on the lead rope.  The release of the pull on the halter is the reward.  Stop pulling when the horse steps, or even thinks of stepping.  If you cannot do this don't even think of loading your horse into a trailer or anything.  

Tap for 1 step, or pull lightly on the lead rope.  release only when the horse thinks or does steps forward.  This is most important. If you do not release your horse will resist.  

Gather up the rope as your horse steps forward.  If your horse has an issue with the rope touching legs then stop the loading and train your horse to accept being touched on the legs.

Once your horse is in the trailer, do up the bum bar. take off the long rope.  You can use the long rope for unloading if your horse zips off.  You will still have the horse in "control".  Don't slow the horse down if rushing off the trailer.  You will only cause a panic attack.

To unload. Pull on the tail and say "unload". Reward for each step back.  If your horse will not unload, then wait. Pushing, pounding etc won't get your horse off any faster.  reward the horse once off the trailer.  

That's it.  It won't matter if you train in a straight load or angle haul.  Your horse will load willingly into either trailer.

You can use just the stick and throw the lead line over the neck of the horse. Have a second lead line for control. 

If you train with the long rope, you will have to use it until your horse loads without it.  It might take a while even if you haul weekly.  The good news is that your horse will step into the trailer as soon as you put it on.

Rearing, backing up, kicking, refusing:  do happen.  Just wait. the horse will settle down.  Reward what you want, ignore what you don't want.  If your horse has a long history or even a short one of not doing as asked the sessions will increase and be more dramatic. That is a handler issue.  

Benefits of teaching a horse to load this way

It is fast.

It is without drama.

The horse doesn't object and will be more willing the next session.

You don't need a helper.  If you do have a helper that person can offer the food reward when the horse is in the trailer through the escape door.

Safe. Walking in with the horse can leave you injured or bruised.  Maybe not this horse or this time.  being in an enclosed, small space with an unhappy horse is not fun.

Previous Skills the horse needs prior to Loading in Trailer Session

A.  Touch Aids

1. Stepping forward to a pull on the halter. No vocal command.

2. Move when touched at the side and croup. No vocal command.

3. Move sideways when touched on the hindquarter for doing up the partition.

4. Teach the horse to do one step.  It makes doing the bum are up easier. The command is "one step"

B.  Voice Aids for Loading

1. Good boy/girl, or a cluck when the horse responds.

2. Load up 

3. One step

4. Unload

Reward

1. Food in the beginning sessions.  Food the horse particularly likes eg carrots for a faster response.

3. Release the pressure on the lead rope

4. Stop tapping.  (this means you keep tapping until the horse moves.  You can change the frequency or the intensity of the taps to elicit a response.  You might want to go back and school the horse on responding to taps.)

5. Scatches at the withers, tail head.

Warning

1. Do not stand directly in front or behind the horse. Always stand to one side.  

2. It is best not to have a helper.  

When driving off

Wait until the horse has been in the trailer for a few or 5 minutes.  Finish loading up with whatever you are bringing once the horse is loaded.  Do up the bum bar.  Wait for a few minutes then close the door.

When you get where you are going. Let the horse stand for as long as possible before opening the back door.  And again before unloading.  It is safer if your horse waits in the trailer than tied to the outside or worse holding the horse.  All the time.  Every time.  Guess how horses that dance around in the trailer were trained to do this?

If your horse kicks, scrambles, doesn't want to load.  Change your driving.  You are too rough.  Put sand on the mats first, then sawdust/shavings on top.  Every time you haul.

Dry out under the mats after every trip.  Replacing floorboards is not fun or cheap.