Despooking Horses

Some horses are spooky some are not.  Essentially, it is because of the way the horse has been handled and its character.  Like people some horses are reactive and some are not.  The easiest horse is the reactive one because then you know you have reached the limit of its tolerance.  The other simply blows up. 

Watch your horse.  You will learn a lot. Some people post that the horse is in the middle of the herd, or at the bottom.  It doesn't matter.  Herd dynamics change.  It all depends on who is in the herd.

How to prevent blow-ups?  Do the new learning exercise three times for 3 days.  

Do baby steps.  

For example:  mounting the horse for the first time.  Hint:  you just don't get on the horse.  Break it down

1.     Pat, stroke the horse's back.  This is accomplished first with grooming.  Then when leading.

2.    Stand over the horse (horses are not accustomed to people being taller). Stand on something

3.    Lean on the horse On the ground and while standing on something.  Jump up and down

4.    Lay on the horse. Face down

5.    Be led lying on the horse. Slide off 

6.    Sit on the horse Stroke, talk to the horse, and feed treats. Touch sides, neck, croup.  Swing legs

7.    Be led sitting on the horse. Stroke, talk to the horse, feed treats.  Touch sides, neck, croup.  Swing legs

8.    Be lunged while sitting on the horse. Use a light seat, stroke, and talk to the horse.  Touch sides, neck, croup.  Swing legs  

        walk, trot, canter on both reins

9    Unclip the lunge line, and circle around lunger, gradually making bigger circles.  Lunger walks with you

10     Lunge/ride horse

11    Ride horse

Allow 4 months for backing to riding horse loose at walk, trot, canter on both reins.  

Ride on trails at a walk only.  Two-point up and down hills.  Don't tire the horse.

Touch the horse.  Move on the horse

If you can ride well the horse will have beautiful transitions at walk, trot and canter.  No lurching into a transition.  The horse will glide.

Keep sessions short and positive

Have a quiet friend in the work area.  Horses are herd animals. Have a saddled, ridden horse for the youngster to follow.

Horses don't like to be kicked.  Carry a stick.  It helps reinforce leg aids.

You can teach leg aids by leading, walking backwards, and touching the side with a stick where the leg aid would be.  Don't bother about horses not being really sensitive to leg aids.  Get the horse going.  Big circles.  Horses will learn as you use them.  Leg aid reactions are a reflex.  The horse simply has to learn it is intentional.  

If you overdo it the horse will react by leaving.  This is not good.  Time to do something else the horse is accustomed to eg loose rein walking.  

Watch your horse's expression:  white around the eye, even a little bit, worry wrinkles over the eye:  not good.  Stop doing whatever you are doing.  Usually, the head is raised.  Ears forward.  At that point back off.  Too much of a reaction.

people and horses do not learn to overcome trepidation by adding to their concerns.

Add things to your fence line eg near gates, water, and shelter.  not enough to scare the horse away.  having an experienced horse in with the flighty horse will help immensely.

Add things to your arena, paddock eg cones, balls, bags, tarps.  let the horses sort things our themselves

Lead your horse around and near, then over, dragging the objects.  have other horses in with you loose.

At no time force your horse to approach, go over drag anything that generates are white around eyes, moving away reaction.  Don't go so close.  Don't make a big thing of it.  in the end the horse will do it without thinking.

Repeat under saddle.  Do not force your horse to approach.  

When working your horse avoid spooky corners.  When your horse is focused on you and working your horse will go by without a blink.  

If your horse is not focused;  calling out, or looking around. Deal with that.  ideally on the ground. Ask your horse to lower its head to about poll level.  looking around in the beginning is acceptable.  Gradually ask for focus on you.  Turn the horse's head straight ahead, or to you.  Circle across the arena.  Turn across the arena

if you are competing: shoulder-fore or shoulder-in.  it is usually on the outside of the arena.

more information

TRTmethod.com. Tristan Tucker. on YouTube also

"Unleashing Harmony:The Man Who Dances With Horses" on Slice Wild on YouTube. (Frederik Pignon)

Living with Horses in the Snow

 We get snow.  We live in a "snow belt".  After two feet the snow is deep.  Real deep.  Then it gets up the horse's elbows (horses are 17-hand warmbloods).  Even with Global warming, we get lots of snow and now unfortunately ice in the winter.  How dealing with the snow and ice is not difficult.

Experts say to keep the horses off the fields.  They do not mean our fields.  Our fields are covered in snow. Lots of snow.  Not just a sprinkle.  By feeding the horses in the fields I no longer have manure and mud in the paddock in spring breakup.  The field is fertilized by the best and reseeded.  horse manure, fresh is great for feeding fields.  It is full of nitrogen and nutrients.  the hay the horses eat reseeds the pasture with grasses we want.   A win-win situation.  

The horses come into the paddock for salt and water or to pass through to another pasture.  hay is put out in the other field. No dealing with horses wanting to leave (they learn to stay in when the gates are open because they are always led out, and food is coming in).  Location for the hay is changed every time a bale is put out to give the horses a clean area to eat.  It is not as good as forking the hay and using a calf sled to move the hay.  Using the tractor to put out hay is a lot easier than forking.  

Moving around in winter keeps the horses fitter.  Keeps them occupied so they do not self-entertain. And distributes the manure.  

Plowing out the gates ensures they will open and horses can get in and out.  At some point, gates need to be scraped down.   Plowing and scraping by the water supply lower the packed snow so the horses are not drinking below ground level. 

the horses will be fine with temperature drops and cold temperatures because they have the freedom to choose where to be.  they have unlimited hay which is usually placed to shield them from the north wind.  The north wind is the coldest wind.  that is why loafing sheds in the north face south.  On a sunny day, the horses stand in front of a stand of evergreens, broadside to the sun.  

On warm winter days, the horses will move into the trees to be cooler.  Or not.  It is their choice where to be.  Food is usually nearby.  

A

n insulated stock tank is easy to achieve by glueing, nailing or screwing rigid foam insulation onto thin plywood.  Half the top is covered to help the stock tank heater.  Living in cold areas means the water will freeze.  The horses do need water in winter.  Eating snow is not an option.  

 Either run extension cords and hose out to the stock tank until a line can be put in.  Or situate the water close to power and a hydrant by changing the fences is another option.  It depends on how much you have to spend at this time.  Using a garden horse is torture as draining it and dragging a long hose into the basement gets old fast.  It is surprisingly cheap to have a water line dug with an electrical line a few feet above.  One can get a backhoe in or rent a ditch witch.  The backhoe probably would be cheaper in effort and money if you get an experienced operator.  In winter and even summer, you will consider the money well spent.  

If you use electric fencing do NOT desensitize the horses to the fence.  In winter the fences will not be hot unless you have positive and ground on the fence.  And the snow doesn't cover the fence.  And the horse is not wearing a blanket.  And the horse touches both strands.  It is easier to keep the horses away from the fence.

Horses that are afraid of electric fences stay away.  This means no injuries.  It is up to the human to encourage the horse to stay away from the fence.  No salt, no feed, no water, nothing that will attract the horse should be within 10 feet of the electric fence. Water is a challenge.  Board fencing near the water will stop the current from jumping into the water.  You will know there is an electrical issue when all the horses won't drink.  There is always at least one that is more cautious.  That is the one you watch.

Deep snow is great for horses.  It is fun to ride in.  The horses learn to move from behind galloping around in the deep snow. They develop the correct muscles.  Legs are kept cool by standing in the snow.  Swellings go down, legs tighten, and ligaments and tendons become a lot stronger.  Their living area is clean.  The world is beautiful, especially on a sunny day.  Keep horses outside, in a field with access to different terrain, shelters and friends.

Raising your horses back: An Easy Way

 Getting your horse's back to rise/round-up is a dream many riders have.  It feels so good when you feel it.  Here are some simple easy to do on your own methods.

I owned (and bred) a long backed horse.  She had a 9 canter!!  Wonderful to sit when I was fit.  When I was fit because  her stride was so long.  My back had to keep moving forward.  Because Gracie had a long back she was trained with her head low (about wither level) so that she would not drop her back. This is not only for long backed horses by the way, but for all horses.  Head up is only for showing. (in dressage).  If your horse is naturally on the forehand (very low head carriage) it will help if the horse is ridden with a higher head carriage.  Ride according to your horse's conformation.  

Living outside in hilly pastures helped her move with her back up.  It is the easiest way to get a horse moving from behind (and therefore the back raised).  Horses raised on the hilly ground will learn to step up and underneath themselves as they move around the pasture.  Give them a year or 6 months.  Watch when the horse trots up and down the hills.  The hindleg will step more forward, the hindquarter muscles will flex.  The head and neck will be down as well.  Not the exaggerated to the knees down, but around wither level. Lower if the horses are on a steep hill (then most likely will be walking).  

Stepping forward and underneath their body is what raised the back.  Look for a hindleg being the first to step forward.  

Watch your horse move around the pasture.  (this is why you want your horse in a pasture for hours and hours and not in a paddock that is only an acre big or smaller.  Your horse won't move as much).  Which leg steps forward first from a halt?  Front or hind? (thank you, Alex Wortmann, I remember this lesson).  Which leg stops first? Front or hind? It should be the hindleg.

When your horse suddenly stops which is more comfortable? stopping on front legs or hindlegs.  This is why when your horse stops suddenly you either sit comfortably or get tossed around.

Plans for a 12' x 24' loafing shed for horses

Our Loafing Shed Plan

This will be ongoing as I will be stopping to go out and count boards and sheets of plywood and metal roofing. I will not be counting screws and nails.


Tools Required
hammer if nailing not screwing
screw driver with attachment for screwing roofing screws and/or boards
roofing screws... 1"? 1 1/2'?
nails:  4" (I prefer twisted as don't come out)
nails: 2" for the plywood
hurricane clips for the rafters attachment
Level
string
augur
tape measure
saw for cutting plywood along the roof line


Materials
14 - sheets 1/2 " plywood (walls)
2x6x12' boards (sides of walls, across the front)
3- 4x6x10' posts (back)
3 - 4x6 x12' posts (front)
2x6 x 16' boards (rafters) (2' on center)
2x4 x12' boards (purloins.. across the rafters for screwing in the roofing spaced 2' apart
16' metal roofing (30"?)
ladders or nail the 2x6 to the posts first and climb up

Procedure
1. level the ground. It helps.  Use the tractor bucket in the spring or a bulldozer 

Loafing shed should be on a high point but not on top of a hill, facing south as in winter this will be warmer.  North wind is the coldest wind.  South wind is the warmest.  Horses prefer a south facing loafing shed.  

2. measure out the post holes to auger.  

Make sure it is square.  It matters.  The boards don't need to be cut if the distance between posts is accurate. 12' between post holes to  the outside edge of the posts.

Back wall has about a 1' overhang which is working out for snow sliding off the roof.  

lights under the eave Open at the sides at the area is protected by trees

2x6 boards spaced 2 feet apart adds to structure strength and give more nailing options for the plywood on the back.  To make it even more stronger add boards or plywood to the inside...especially if you have a horse that rubs on the wall.

This loafing shed has the top angle on the side wall open.  It has since been walled in to provide better structural strength.  The back wall are 2x4s set 12 feet apart. 

This is also an error but so far the wall is standing.  The snow does eventually slide off.  Front posts are 4x6. It is open on the sides as the field(s) hold more that 4 horses. The sides  have trees for a barrier from the wind.  The overhand at the front was extended so all the horses could have shelter.  

This loafing shed had another one added beside it for storing equipment. The join was not seamless.  Better would have been to use the post and wall from the existing loafing shed.  Lights inside the loafing shed and on the front.

This loafing shed has an inner liner to prevent the walls being pushed out.  I used used wood (2x4's).  Panels are to help tame a wildie.

3. Auger holes to 2' (we have sandy loam so no shifting). 

measure for next hole 12' away. Spray paint or a stake to mark the spot.
When using 4x6 posts make sure the long side (6") side faces the back.  Must be consistent. Will not have to dig holes at 6' mark if using smaller posts (2x4's).  If the posts are not the exact same height it doesn't matter.  Cut if really different in height.  Header boards will hide the difference.  

4. Set posts into the holes as dig.  6" side faces back. Use a level to ensure post is vertical.  Tape measure for 12'.  Set posts.  Tamp dirt as fill.  Even use water to pack the dirt.

5. Nail 2x6 x12' boards to the posts.  Start low with 2' intervals to the top.  Plywood is nailed to these boards.  Plywood is last. (so can climb up the 2x6's)

6. 2 - 2x6 x12' boards aremnailed on each side of the posts at the topmost level on all four sides (or front and back sides).  2x6x12 boards nailed 2' lower on the front (stabilizes the rectangle). Plywood across the front makes the building more stable.

7.  2x6x16' rafters set at 2' on centre from the middle posts out.  Use hurricane clips to hold in place or notch each board at both ends or toenail to 2x6 set between the rafters.

8. 2x4x12' boards nailed across the rafters starting at the front or the back

9. Metal roofing screwed to the 2x4's start at one side.  Make sure the edges are square so the roof doesn't go on crooked.  Screw to each 2x4.  Patch holes with roof patch.  Overlap the metal.

10. Nail the plywood to the walls.  Make sure the plywood is square to the post.  Nail at 2' intervals or closer. 2" spiral nails hold well.  Plywood is vertical. It is easier to hold in place.  Horizontal if you have a helper.  Do not go past the headers and close off the eaves.

11.  Ends above the plywood walls need to be cut on a diagonal.  It should work out that one half goes on one side the other half goes on the other side.  And a smaller piece on the front (or the back)

12.  Line the inside if you would like or if you have a horse that cribs or rubs.

13.  Stain with acrylic stain.  I apply it with a roller and brush.

14. Add bedding, salt and minerals in buckets

Snow will not go into the loafing shed if it faces south.  The opening at the back where the roof/eaves are must be left open for airflow.  If the entire building is closed in there will be dead air space which is cold.  

I have one loafing shed that faces east.  The horses rarely use it compared to south facing loafing sheds.  It gets snow in it.  

Your hores will tell you if it is facing the correct direction.  They will use it daily.

Clean out in the spring.  Add more bedding.  Deep litter in the winter will keep the horses warmer.  

How to Train a Horse

How to Train a Horse

Introduction

Training a horse is fun.  The more skills your horse has, the more enjoyable the horse will be to have around.  Every time you interact with your horse, you are training the horse.  The trainer you sent your horse to can only do so much.  You may be counter training your horse if the horse behaves poorly after several months after returning from the trainer.  It is you, not the trainer.  

Explanation

Horses learn best with positive and negative reinforcement.  Punishment training creates a fearful or, worse, could not care less horse (learned helplessness).  

Positive reinforcement is where a reward is given to the horse:  treat, scratch, rest, click.

Negative reinforcement is where the reward is the removal of pressure, touch.  Pressure/touch should be appropriate to elicit a response, with no overreaction or lack of reaction. It takes a skilled person to know how much to use.  How much will also vary with the horse, that particular day, that particular session, that particular time, so the trainer needs to be aware and adjust her touch?

Horses trained with positive and negative reinforcement learn rapidly, calmly, and without fear.  They are willing to learn.  The horse will focus on the trainer rather than outside influences (e.g. noise, grass, birds, etc.)

Positive reinforcement forms vary with the horse (what the horse considers to be a reward), situation, and what is being trained.

The first reward is usually food.  Most horses like food. Finding the food the horse prefers may be a challenge.

The most important rule for using food rewards is that the food is immediate, not gratuitous, and small.  Some horse may become pushy and less than polite in accepting food rewards.  In this case, another reward should be found.  

Punishment is reserved for dangerous behaviour.  Biting, kicking, squishing you are not acceptable at any time.  It is best to stop this behaviour before connection occurs (horse snaps at you but does not connect, swings a hindleg at you, but again, does not connect.  Punish the horse:  slap, yell, chase off (even all three).  You want the horse to learn that this is not acceptable behaviour.  Don’t make excuses for why the horse bit or kicked you.  It is not acceptable.  And stop whatever it is that you are doing to make a horse bite/kick you!  You are training your horse to become dangerous.  Once a horse learns a skill, it doesn’t forget it.  It will reoccur in the future.

Know what it is you want to train.  Read up on the aids, what it looks like, what horses doing it, even if you have done it once or twice or more in the past.  Maybe this time, you will learn something that makes training your horse easier.

Break down what you are teaching into baby steps.  Write the steps down.  Write down the mistakes the horse may make.  Write down the corrections to the mistake.  Find alternate ways to teach the skill.

What does the horse need to know before the new skill?  How well does the horse perform it?  The pre-knowledge skill does not have to be 100% consistent.  Maybe 50% consistent?

For example, to perform a turn on the forehand:  the horse needs to stop and respect the stopping aids to some extent; the horse needs to respond to leg aids. (turn on the forehand is good for confirming the leg aids and the halt aids.

"Mistakes" of the Horse 

The horse really hasn’t a clue what you want, but good-naturedly, usually, tries to accommodate the rider.   The horse is not “bad”, “ignoring you”, or some other term.  The horse just does not understand.  It is a rider problem, not a horse.

For example, if the horse walks forward when the leg is applied in turn on the forehand. The horse is responding as he has learnt: leg means to go.  The horse is supposed to be learning to go sideways with the hindquarters, not forward.  

The rider was too slow or too inadequate with the stop aid once the horse moved.  The aids are given in sequence:  leg, hand, relax, repeat for the next step.  Simultaneous aids will confuse the horse.  (Principles of Learning).  

loose in the arena;  the first stage

Once the horse learns the first concept, more can be expected from the horse (after the third day).  

For example, once the horse moves to one side with the hindquarter, the horse is then expected to cross the hindleg in front of the other hindleg (turning to the right, the left hind leg crosses the right hind leg).  The rider will feel the horse’s backlift when this happens.  (exciting)  

It is not fair to the horse to expect the horse to cross legs in the beginning.  It is nice, but not expected. 

 A skilled rider may achieve more sooner.  A flexible horse may be able to cross from the beginning.  

The horse should always be willing to move forward after a training session.  

In turn, on the forehand, for example, after the horse stops, the rider should ask the horse to walk on to maintain forward motion.  

The repeat, the rider stops the horse and asks.  It is best if the rider is organized before stopping so the halt is limited and the horse remains willing to move.

Each training session is limited to 3 times, for 3 days.  Some horses will respond faster, so the repetitions can be reduced, or more can be expected.  Caution should be used in case the horse doesn’t really understand what he is supposed to do.

Ask for the skill to be performed in different areas of riding, right from the beginning.  Then, change where you ride and ask for the new skill.  Raise the bar, and expect more from the horse.  For example, you can do a “working turn on the forehand” where the horse’s inside front leg walk a small circle with turn on the forehand.  

If the horse is sticky, it is best not to insist the horse does what you want.  The horse is saying he doesn’t want to do it (politely).  It is up to you, the trainer, to figure out why.  Too many repetitions?  Too many of the same thing when the horse already has learned it? Why is your horse refusing to do it?  That is the most important question.  Are you doing something different?  What are you doing that is not the same?  

Feel or watch what your horse does.  Is he able to perform the skill equally on both reins? (ideal)  If not, make a mental note to do some suppling, strengthening work on the weaker side.  Is it you?  (for right-handed people, the right hand tends to hold more, whereas the left hand gives more)

Session Length

Repeat 3 times in a training session but end on a good note: the horse is quiet, calm, even if you had to stop the new work.  That is ending on a good note.  Ask less, rather than more, if the horse is not responding as you want.  Between the repetitions lengthen stride, 2 point, grids, something very different.  Do conditioning work if the repetitions went well so that the horse is building up his strength.  Even stop and get off it; the results you obtained were momentous.

Rewards for the horse

Food is not necessary every time but helps in the beginning when doing groundwork or if the horse becomes anxious while ridden.  

Loose rein, a good stretch at walk, trot, or canter (no transition, just loosen the reins)

Move forward freely (after collection or complicated work, e.g. piaffe, half halt, canter to halt transitions)

Stroking the neck from poll to wither (not patting, which is a hit)

Scratching the wither

Uberstechen with one or both reins (give with the inside rein or both reins for a few (3) strides

Stop and look around.

Change the location where riding, on a long or loose rein, e.g. walk around a field after schooling in an arena (end of work reward)

Jump, trot poles  (if the horse enjoys jumping after intense schooling)  A change of pace.

Punishment for the horse

Slapping

Loud voice

Whistling (the horse will also slow down to a whistle)

Big kick to move away

Hitting with reins (over and under)

Working alone

Repetition (more than 3 times)

Training is fun.  If it isn’t fun, then don’t do it.  Read more, find out what it is that is wrong.  If you get stressed, frustrated.  Stop, do something easier.  If the horse just doesn’t respond, change what you are doing.  Do something the horse can do.  Rethink about what you are doing.  Chances are you are expecting too much for your skill level or the horse’s learning ability. 

All training should be according to the horse and rider combination.  But, generally, three repetitions for 3 days is a good starting point.  Some horses will take longer, others slightly less.  It depends on what is being asked, how it is being asked, the horse's history, and handling of the horse.

more information

TRTmethod.com. Tristan Tucker. on YouTube also

"Unleashing Harmony:The Man Who Dances With Horses" on Slice Wild on YouTube. (Frederik Pignon)