Why would I reward a horse for doing what I asked?

People who know me through horses are most likely wondering about this title.  I reward often and use various methods.  I like to see good results. Now.  By rewarding often I get good results quicker.  For years I rode a horse that was tense, pulled, blew up and was basically awful to ride.  I took monthly clinics and tried my best to do as told.  My lessons were recorded on a handheld recorder so I could review my lessons.  For years.  I did this.  It seemed to me that I was still at the beginning.  He was tense (I realize now), ran through the bit, didn't respond to my leg aids, was slow to respond to any aids and was basically awful to ride.

At 16 years of age, after being ridden for 12 years I quit riding him.  I had a nicer horse.  I had also changed riding instructors.  Thank goodness.  It wasn't that she was tough but that she didn't give me the information I needed in order to ride my horse better so that he didn't pull (actually it was me holding him so he pulled) and run through the bit.  My new instructor "rode the horse while I sat on my horse".  It was amazing.  Suddenly I wasn't being told to lower my hands, to shorten my reins but actually almost the opposite.  My back is long, my arms normal length so naturally I couldn't ride with my hands just above the withers.  As a female it was also impossible for me to ride with my hands 6 inches apart (for a male that is in front of the hips).  The longer rein stopped the horse from running through the bit.  It allowed her to drop her neck and reach for the bit.

Martina's lessons were simple.  No complicated movements to try to do.  Just 20 metre circle, go large, turn.  However, one had to feel what the horse was doing and ask at the correct time.  Much easier to ride.  Either the horse responded or not.  No upcoming turns or inclines to worry about.  Correction of the horse and rider were consistent.  Focus on the rider enabled the horse to relax and move better.

I still remember my first lesson.  flex to the inside, inside leg, half halt with outside rein.  And suddenly the horse was bent to the inside, paying attention, easier to ride, and so on and so on.  this lesson was the night before Martina was flying to Germany for the winter.  It took me almost all winter to learn when and where to use this (everywhere).

Circles were easy doing it Martina's way.  Turn you upper body the degree you want the horse to turn.   More for 10 metre circles less for 20 metre circles.  No half halts.  No bending to the inside.  Look to where going and turn your upper body.  Piece of cake.

Another lesson I remember was also just before going off to Germany was to correct my pulling/heavy hands.  It was loosen the reins to almost the bucket. (almost 12" from the buckle).  Spring had a  beautiful neck so over bent to loosen the contact of my hands.  I was to do this until Martina returned.  Three months on a loose rein.  It wasn't a hardship.  I could walk, trot, canter, turn etc etc.  I just could not shorten my reins.  Oh my goodness the difference this time made.  Spring reached for the contact and never over bent after this.  She was a delight to ride.  Nice before but a delight now.

In addition to having simpler easy to replicate lessons I was learning to reward my horse.  Uberstretchen is a reward for the horse. One rein or both reins it is a reward.  It is also a test to see if your horse is on the outside rein.  If not when you give with the inside rein the horse will counter bend to the outside.

Feeding after work is a reward for horses.  The last thing they remember of you is eating.  This means the next day when you go to get your horse the horse comes to you.  That is not a hardship.

Treats during work help the horse understand that this is what is wanted.  It is especially important to reward the horse when learning something new.  How else will the horse know?

Western trainers are posting a meme "what time is it?" Rider says: 4pm.  Trainer says "what time is it?"  Rider says: afternoon?   Trainer says "what time is it?" Rider says:  4 o'clock to illustrate that if you keep asking the same question the horse doesn't understand what the correct answer is unless you reward you horse.


Types of Rewards for the Horse

1.  Food
big chunks for nervous, anxious horses
none for the horse that wants to crawl into your pocket looking for more
If your horse will not accept food your horse is quite upset.  A sign you should wait and not do anything demanding of your horse.

2.  Scratches
Scientists have discovered an horse's heart rate lowers by 10 beats a minute with a wither scratch

3. Strokes
long strokes along the crest of the neck.
A pat is a hit.  Horses learn not to run after being patted.  I don't know if they learn that the hit is a reward.

4.  Giving with one or both reins
Also known as uberstrechen

5. Stopping what your are doing
Repeat the request 3 times then that is it.
This is why school horses are saints.  Humans need more than 3 repetitions to figure things out.
Repetition is punishment.  Remember writing lines in school?

6. Asking for the opposite of what you are doing
extended or medium trot after collection.  A reward and also a way of maintaining the forward movement.

7. Stop
Take a breather. Watch the birds.

8. Loose reins
At walk, trot or canter it is a reward.

9. 2 point on long or loose reins

10.  Food at the end of the work session in the barn or tacking up area if no stall is a big reward for the horse.


Signs of Relaxation in the Horse

1. Swinging tail= swinging back
the next is down and the tail swings back and forth
Tension is a clamped, or bobbing tail or kinked tail.  Extreme tension is when the tail is held vertical (called having the "wind up its tail")

2. flopping crest:  flops on turns to the inside

3. Neck is down about wither level or  just above.  Poll is the highest point.
In addition to the neck being convex the bottom muscle is flapping (it should be tiny, as well)
Inverted necks have the head held high,  The bottom muscle on the neck bulges forward. It looks like the horse is pulling itself along.  Steps will be long but hurried.

4.  The horse snorts and blows his nose.
The mucus in the nostrils tickle the horse's nose so he blows his nose.

5. The poll is soft.  The Altas bone allows the horse to flex and to bend to the inside or outside.  Tension in the poll is often associated with being head shy or unwilling to lower the head.

6. The horse takes long, slow steps in his rhythm.

7. The horse may have "lipstick" on his lips from chewing the bit.  Treats help the horse chew the bit.
Huge amounts of slobber as not a sign of relaxation but of tension.
The lips are relaxed not clenched.

8. The ears move.  Or are held sideways and flop a bit.
Pricked ears that rarely move are not a good sign.  The horse is not paying attention to you.

9.  The horse responds to you in a relaxed manner.  The breathing is deep and regular.

10.  The eyes are bright, wide without any white showing, or worry wrinkles.  The horse is watching where going and not looking to the sides in case of trouble.


Signs of Tension in the Horse

1.  Hard to catch
Hard to catch because the horse is afraid of what will happen.

2.  Eyes wide open so the white shows.  This is a bit difficult with a horse that does not have a coloured sclera.  You will know.

3.  Worry wrinkles above the eyes or around the mouth.
Stroke gently to relax.  Treats help.

4.  Head held up.  Looking at the horizon.  Inverted maybe.  A well developed lower neck muscle is a good indicator that the horse goes around with the head up.  Usually looking for trouble.  Look for the worry wrinkles

5.  Spooky
Some people train their horse to spook by insisting the horse go to whatever the horse is leery of.  The horse will learn well and will repeat the spooking at the same place.
Do you want your ride to be on going to something spooky or to practice something fun?  Stay away from the scary bit.  When the horse is focused on you the horse will go by it without a twinge.
Spooky horses don't trust their rider/handler.  Why?  Why is your horse so reactive?  What happened? Horses will spook.  It is the degree and frequency of the spook that matters.

6.  Won't eat.  Horses are usually willing to eat food they like.  This is very important.  Stop what is happening until the horse will eat.  Reconsider what you have been doing.

7.  Licking lips and chewing are signs of relaxation.  This means the horse was NOT relaxed prior to this.  Not good.  Stop stressing the horse.  When learning something new it is important that the horse is calm.  Horses and people do not learn well when stressed.

8.  Tail is clamps to the horse's body or hangs. A kink is a sign of tension. Not a good sign.

9. Pinched mouth.  As in people it is a sign of tension.  Rubbing the mouth, lips helps to relax. Chewing is good.  Champing is not.  Tongue out. Slobbering.  Mouth open.

10.  Tight muscles.  Not a very good sign.  Muscles should be soft when touched.  Rubbing push/releasing helps.


When to Reward
Immediately after the correct response.
At every correct response until the horse is ready for a different reward.  eg from treats to a scratch or stroke.
Usually by that time the horse is being rewarded for something new.
Food offered for a reason will not result in a horse that mugs you.  Existing is not a good reason.

head is up but not tense

stroking to reward

relaxed, mellow

on high alert but without tension.  Look at the eyes.  She is looking at the neighbour's horses.

Horse posture why it matters

I will be coming back and adding to this post... more photos because photos show better. and more on the corrections I did and why

I bought Marigold as a 2 year old in September, 2005.  I liked how she trotted for 2 steps (round pen was too small so couldn't do more).  I also liked her mother a lot.  Her father was a nicely boned short QH.

I snent her for training after spending 4 maths doing groundwork (lungeing, getting accustomed to tack, things happening, riding etc).  She was going perfect.  Rhythmical, bent to inside, flexed, etc etc
Got her back inverted, tense, etc etc

Photos of marigold before This is not trained.  Naturally in a good posture


   

Head up but looking.  front legs underneath. handless sprawled

after body work, sessions with Kenneth to change her posture from inverted, tense. (Winter, 2019/20).  Muscles on top of her neck more delveloped than lower neck.  Looking for her crest to wiggle now. tail swings after some long, slow work.  Lunged slower so her steps are coming from behind and she is pushing herself not pulling.  Had to walk backwards, asking her to lower her head. a lot.  Then taught her to flex at the poll.  Point whip at poll to flex to inside, then to middle of neck, and then finally at the girth to bend to inside.lower neck is bulging Hindleg is not swinging forward enough.  It can't because of the tension in the toppling.  Head to high pulling herself along with her front legs.  first step should be a handle.

Plans for a 12' x 24' loafing shed for horses

Our Loafing Shed Plan

This will be ongoing as I will be stopping to go out and count boards and sheets of plywood and metal roofing. I will not be counting screws and nails.


Tools Required
hammer if nailing not screwing
screw driver with attachment for screwing roofing screws and/or boards
roofing screws... 1"? 1 1/2'?
nails:  4" (I prefer twisted as don't come out)
nails: 2" for the plywood
hurricane clips for the rafters attachment
Level
string
augur
tape measure
saw for cutting plywood along the roof line


Materials
14 - sheets 1/2 " plywood (walls)
2x6x12' boards (sides of walls, across the front)
3- 4x6x10' posts (back)
3 - 4x6 x12' posts (front)
2x6 x 16' boards (rafters) (2' on center)
2x4 x12' boards (purloins.. across the rafters for screwing in the roofing spaced 2' apart
16' metal roofing (30"?)
ladders or nail the 2x6 to the posts first and climb up

Procedure
1. level the ground. It helps.  Use the tractor bucket in the spring or a bulldozer 

Loafing shed should be on a high point but not on top of a hill, facing south as in winter this will be warmer.  North wind is the coldest wind.  South wind is the warmest.  Horses prefer a south facing loafing shed.  

2. measure out the post holes to auger.  

Make sure it is square.  It matters.  The boards don't need to be cut if the distance between posts is accurate. 12' between post holes to  the outside edge of the posts.

Back wall has about a 1' overhang which is working out for snow sliding off the roof.  

lights under the eave Open at the sides at the area is protected by trees

2x6 boards spaced 2 feet apart adds to structure strength and give more nailing options for the plywood on the back.  To make it even more stronger add boards or plywood to the inside...especially if you have a horse that rubs on the wall.

This loafing shed has the top angle on the side wall open.  It has since been walled in to provide better structural strength.  The back wall are 2x4s set 12 feet apart. 

This is also an error but so far the wall is standing.  The snow does eventually slide off.  Front posts are 4x6. It is open on the sides as the field(s) hold more that 4 horses. The sides  have trees for a barrier from the wind.  The overhand at the front was extended so all the horses could have shelter.  

This loafing shed had another one added beside it for storing equipment. The join was not seamless.  Better would have been to use the post and wall from the existing loafing shed.  Lights inside the loafing shed and on the front.

This loafing shed has an inner liner to prevent the walls being pushed out.  I used used wood (2x4's).  Panels are to help tame a wildie.

3. Auger holes to 2' (we have sandy loam so no shifting). 

measure for next hole 12' away. Spray paint or a stake to mark the spot.
When using 4x6 posts make sure the long side (6") side faces the back.  Must be consistent. Will not have to dig holes at 6' mark if using smaller posts (2x4's).  If the posts are not the exact same height it doesn't matter.  Cut if really different in height.  Header boards will hide the difference.  

4. Set posts into the holes as dig.  6" side faces back. Use a level to ensure post is vertical.  Tape measure for 12'.  Set posts.  Tamp dirt as fill.  Even use water to pack the dirt.

5. Nail 2x6 x12' boards to the posts.  Start low with 2' intervals to the top.  Plywood is nailed to these boards.  Plywood is last. (so can climb up the 2x6's)

6. 2 - 2x6 x12' boards aremnailed on each side of the posts at the topmost level on all four sides (or front and back sides).  2x6x12 boards nailed 2' lower on the front (stabilizes the rectangle). Plywood across the front makes the building more stable.

7.  2x6x16' rafters set at 2' on centre from the middle posts out.  Use hurricane clips to hold in place or notch each board at both ends or toenail to 2x6 set between the rafters.

8. 2x4x12' boards nailed across the rafters starting at the front or the back

9. Metal roofing screwed to the 2x4's start at one side.  Make sure the edges are square so the roof doesn't go on crooked.  Screw to each 2x4.  Patch holes with roof patch.  Overlap the metal.

10. Nail the plywood to the walls.  Make sure the plywood is square to the post.  Nail at 2' intervals or closer. 2" spiral nails hold well.  Plywood is vertical. It is easier to hold in place.  Horizontal if you have a helper.  Do not go past the headers and close off the eaves.

11.  Ends above the plywood walls need to be cut on a diagonal.  It should work out that one half goes on one side the other half goes on the other side.  And a smaller piece on the front (or the back)

12.  Line the inside if you would like or if you have a horse that cribs or rubs.

13.  Stain with acrylic stain.  I apply it with a roller and brush.

14. Add bedding, salt and minerals in buckets

Snow will not go into the loafing shed if it faces south.  The opening at the back where the roof/eaves are must be left open for airflow.  If the entire building is closed in there will be dead air space which is cold.  

I have one loafing shed that faces east.  The horses rarely use it compared to south facing loafing sheds.  It gets snow in it.  

Your hores will tell you if it is facing the correct direction.  They will use it daily.

Clean out in the spring.  Add more bedding.  Deep litter in the winter will keep the horses warmer.