Horse posture why it matters

I will be coming back and adding to this post... more photos because photos show better. and more on the corrections I did and why

I bought Marigold as a 2 year old in September, 2005.  I liked how she trotted for 2 steps (round pen was too small so couldn't do more).  I also liked her mother a lot.  Her father was a nicely boned short QH.

I snent her for training after spending 4 maths doing groundwork (lungeing, getting accustomed to tack, things happening, riding etc).  She was going perfect.  Rhythmical, bent to inside, flexed, etc etc
Got her back inverted, tense, etc etc

Photos of marigold before This is not trained.  Naturally in a good posture


   

Head up but looking.  front legs underneath. handless sprawled

after body work, sessions with Kenneth to change her posture from inverted, tense. (Winter, 2019/20).  Muscles on top of her neck more delveloped than lower neck.  Looking for her crest to wiggle now. tail swings after some long, slow work.  Lunged slower so her steps are coming from behind and she is pushing herself not pulling.  Had to walk backwards, asking her to lower her head. a lot.  Then taught her to flex at the poll.  Point whip at poll to flex to inside, then to middle of neck, and then finally at the girth to bend to inside.lower neck is bulging Hindleg is not swinging forward enough.  It can't because of the tension in the toppling.  Head to high pulling herself along with her front legs.  first step should be a handle.

Plans for a 12' x 24' loafing shed for horses

Our Loafing Shed Plan

This will be ongoing as I will be stopping to go out and count boards and sheets of plywood and metal roofing. I will not be counting screws and nails.


Tools Required
hammer if nailing not screwing
screw driver with attachment for screwing roofing screws and/or boards
roofing screws... 1"? 1 1/2'?
nails:  4" (I prefer twisted as don't come out)
nails: 2" for the plywood
hurricane clips for the rafters attachment
Level
string
augur
tape measure
saw for cutting plywood along the roof line


Materials
14 - sheets 1/2 " plywood (walls)
2x6x12' boards (sides of walls, across the front)
3- 4x6x10' posts (back)
3 - 4x6 x12' posts (front)
2x6 x 16' boards (rafters) (2' on center)
2x4 x12' boards (purloins.. across the rafters for screwing in the roofing spaced 2' apart
16' metal roofing (30"?)
ladders or nail the 2x6 to the posts first and climb up

Procedure
1. level the ground. It helps.  Use the tractor bucket in the spring or a bulldozer 

Loafing shed should be on a high point but not on top of a hill, facing south as in winter this will be warmer.  North wind is the coldest wind.  South wind is the warmest.  Horses prefer a south facing loafing shed.  

2. measure out the post holes to auger.  

Make sure it is square.  It matters.  The boards don't need to be cut if the distance between posts is accurate. 12' between post holes to  the outside edge of the posts.

Back wall has about a 1' overhang which is working out for snow sliding off the roof.  

lights under the eave Open at the sides at the area is protected by trees

2x6 boards spaced 2 feet apart adds to structure strength and give more nailing options for the plywood on the back.  To make it even more stronger add boards or plywood to the inside...especially if you have a horse that rubs on the wall.

This loafing shed has the top angle on the side wall open.  It has since been walled in to provide better structural strength.  The back wall are 2x4s set 12 feet apart. 

This is also an error but so far the wall is standing.  The snow does eventually slide off.  Front posts are 4x6. It is open on the sides as the field(s) hold more that 4 horses. The sides  have trees for a barrier from the wind.  The overhand at the front was extended so all the horses could have shelter.  

This loafing shed had another one added beside it for storing equipment. The join was not seamless.  Better would have been to use the post and wall from the existing loafing shed.  Lights inside the loafing shed and on the front.

This loafing shed has an inner liner to prevent the walls being pushed out.  I used used wood (2x4's).  Panels are to help tame a wildie.

3. Auger holes to 2' (we have sandy loam so no shifting). 

measure for next hole 12' away. Spray paint or a stake to mark the spot.
When using 4x6 posts make sure the long side (6") side faces the back.  Must be consistent. Will not have to dig holes at 6' mark if using smaller posts (2x4's).  If the posts are not the exact same height it doesn't matter.  Cut if really different in height.  Header boards will hide the difference.  

4. Set posts into the holes as dig.  6" side faces back. Use a level to ensure post is vertical.  Tape measure for 12'.  Set posts.  Tamp dirt as fill.  Even use water to pack the dirt.

5. Nail 2x6 x12' boards to the posts.  Start low with 2' intervals to the top.  Plywood is nailed to these boards.  Plywood is last. (so can climb up the 2x6's)

6. 2 - 2x6 x12' boards aremnailed on each side of the posts at the topmost level on all four sides (or front and back sides).  2x6x12 boards nailed 2' lower on the front (stabilizes the rectangle). Plywood across the front makes the building more stable.

7.  2x6x16' rafters set at 2' on centre from the middle posts out.  Use hurricane clips to hold in place or notch each board at both ends or toenail to 2x6 set between the rafters.

8. 2x4x12' boards nailed across the rafters starting at the front or the back

9. Metal roofing screwed to the 2x4's start at one side.  Make sure the edges are square so the roof doesn't go on crooked.  Screw to each 2x4.  Patch holes with roof patch.  Overlap the metal.

10. Nail the plywood to the walls.  Make sure the plywood is square to the post.  Nail at 2' intervals or closer. 2" spiral nails hold well.  Plywood is vertical. It is easier to hold in place.  Horizontal if you have a helper.  Do not go past the headers and close off the eaves.

11.  Ends above the plywood walls need to be cut on a diagonal.  It should work out that one half goes on one side the other half goes on the other side.  And a smaller piece on the front (or the back)

12.  Line the inside if you would like or if you have a horse that cribs or rubs.

13.  Stain with acrylic stain.  I apply it with a roller and brush.

14. Add bedding, salt and minerals in buckets

Snow will not go into the loafing shed if it faces south.  The opening at the back where the roof/eaves are must be left open for airflow.  If the entire building is closed in there will be dead air space which is cold.  

I have one loafing shed that faces east.  The horses rarely use it compared to south facing loafing sheds.  It gets snow in it.  

Your hores will tell you if it is facing the correct direction.  They will use it daily.

Clean out in the spring.  Add more bedding.  Deep litter in the winter will keep the horses warmer.  

2020

Covid-19. Another quarantine.  Earlier this year, it was ticks and before that ringworm.  All brought in by a young (too young to be without her mother) foal.  Poor thing.  She was in quarantine for 2 weeks, and instead of putting her in with a herd, I left her and the other foal in the quarantine paddock.  Good thing as it is 3 weeks for ringworm to show up.  In all, 8 horses had it—5 of mine.  I didn't touch 3 other boarders, so they didn't have anything.

It took quite a bit of touching for the other horses to get.  I used Miss July for lessons and worked with Gus, Marigold and Alex.  I am not surprised Gus got it the worst of them as he still is not quite up to par.  His coat isn't rough, but it isn't shiny.  Next year he will be better.

Covid-19 has resulted in the cancellation of lessons.  More income lost.  The boarders are paying, though.

Luca has not eaten a hole in the hay net.  Could it be because the hay isn't that great, so no rush to eat?  Kit is allowing him to share the bale with him.  I thought the bale (big square) would last a month.  Not sure now as I think this is the 3rd bale since the end of February.  The herd of 9 goes through a bale a week. They are in great shape.  Lily and Alex are a bit thin but not bad/scary thin.

The big square bales were cut from the middle to the end of August.  I guess this is what I should be looking for in hay now, as none of the fatties is fat. Not thin but not gaining weight.

The really loose nets are quite easy to put on the bales.  I think the white nets for a round bale will fit the square bales too.  They are a funny shape anyway.  Or else that is what they have been sending me.  The opening is the narrowest.  Better than the green nets.  They rot and are really heavy when wet or frozen.  The babies (3 boarders and Ziva) eat out of a green net as they are getting Ron's round bales.  The hay ended up being quite good as the leaves kept growing.  I think that is the orchard grass.  One good thing for it. Or that other grass my horses won't eat.

I bought 4 straw square bales for Petra's baby to lie in.  When I got it home saw it was oat straw... with the heads on it? I hope she doesn't stand there and eat it.  Will see.

Petra is due May 9 for foaling.  She was bred on June 1.  I hope she has it a bit later.  She is huge and softening and getting a big bag.  The snow is bound to start melting soon.  She is still in the herd.  It is too cold before the end of May to have a baby.