How to Train a Horse

How to Train a Horse

Introduction

Training a horse is fun.  The more skills your horse has, the more enjoyable the horse will be to have around.  Every time you interact with your horse, you are training the horse.  The trainer you sent your horse to can only do so much.  You may be counter training your horse if the horse behaves poorly after several months after returning from the trainer.  It is you, not the trainer.  

Explanation

Horses learn best with positive and negative reinforcement.  Punishment training creates a fearful or, worse, could not care less horse (learned helplessness).  

Positive reinforcement is where a reward is given to the horse:  treat, scratch, rest, click.

Negative reinforcement is where the reward is the removal of pressure, touch.  Pressure/touch should be appropriate to elicit a response, with no overreaction or lack of reaction. It takes a skilled person to know how much to use.  How much will also vary with the horse, that particular day, that particular session, that particular time, so the trainer needs to be aware and adjust her touch?

Horses trained with positive and negative reinforcement learn rapidly, calmly, and without fear.  They are willing to learn.  The horse will focus on the trainer rather than outside influences (e.g. noise, grass, birds, etc.)

Positive reinforcement forms vary with the horse (what the horse considers to be a reward), situation, and what is being trained.

The first reward is usually food.  Most horses like food. Finding the food the horse prefers may be a challenge.

The most important rule for using food rewards is that the food is immediate, not gratuitous, and small.  Some horse may become pushy and less than polite in accepting food rewards.  In this case, another reward should be found.  

Punishment is reserved for dangerous behaviour.  Biting, kicking, squishing you are not acceptable at any time.  It is best to stop this behaviour before connection occurs (horse snaps at you but does not connect, swings a hindleg at you, but again, does not connect.  Punish the horse:  slap, yell, chase off (even all three).  You want the horse to learn that this is not acceptable behaviour.  Don’t make excuses for why the horse bit or kicked you.  It is not acceptable.  And stop whatever it is that you are doing to make a horse bite/kick you!  You are training your horse to become dangerous.  Once a horse learns a skill, it doesn’t forget it.  It will reoccur in the future.

Know what it is you want to train.  Read up on the aids, what it looks like, what horses doing it, even if you have done it once or twice or more in the past.  Maybe this time, you will learn something that makes training your horse easier.

Break down what you are teaching into baby steps.  Write the steps down.  Write down the mistakes the horse may make.  Write down the corrections to the mistake.  Find alternate ways to teach the skill.

What does the horse need to know before the new skill?  How well does the horse perform it?  The pre-knowledge skill does not have to be 100% consistent.  Maybe 50% consistent?

For example, to perform a turn on the forehand:  the horse needs to stop and respect the stopping aids to some extent; the horse needs to respond to leg aids. (turn on the forehand is good for confirming the leg aids and the halt aids.

"Mistakes" of the Horse 

The horse really hasn’t a clue what you want, but good-naturedly, usually, tries to accommodate the rider.   The horse is not “bad”, “ignoring you”, or some other term.  The horse just does not understand.  It is a rider problem, not a horse.

For example, if the horse walks forward when the leg is applied in turn on the forehand. The horse is responding as he has learnt: leg means to go.  The horse is supposed to be learning to go sideways with the hindquarters, not forward.  

The rider was too slow or too inadequate with the stop aid once the horse moved.  The aids are given in sequence:  leg, hand, relax, repeat for the next step.  Simultaneous aids will confuse the horse.  (Principles of Learning).  

loose in the arena;  the first stage

Once the horse learns the first concept, more can be expected from the horse (after the third day).  

For example, once the horse moves to one side with the hindquarter, the horse is then expected to cross the hindleg in front of the other hindleg (turning to the right, the left hind leg crosses the right hind leg).  The rider will feel the horse’s backlift when this happens.  (exciting)  

It is not fair to the horse to expect the horse to cross legs in the beginning.  It is nice, but not expected. 

 A skilled rider may achieve more sooner.  A flexible horse may be able to cross from the beginning.  

The horse should always be willing to move forward after a training session.  

In turn, on the forehand, for example, after the horse stops, the rider should ask the horse to walk on to maintain forward motion.  

The repeat, the rider stops the horse and asks.  It is best if the rider is organized before stopping so the halt is limited and the horse remains willing to move.

Each training session is limited to 3 times, for 3 days.  Some horses will respond faster, so the repetitions can be reduced, or more can be expected.  Caution should be used in case the horse doesn’t really understand what he is supposed to do.

Ask for the skill to be performed in different areas of riding, right from the beginning.  Then, change where you ride and ask for the new skill.  Raise the bar, and expect more from the horse.  For example, you can do a “working turn on the forehand” where the horse’s inside front leg walk a small circle with turn on the forehand.  

If the horse is sticky, it is best not to insist the horse does what you want.  The horse is saying he doesn’t want to do it (politely).  It is up to you, the trainer, to figure out why.  Too many repetitions?  Too many of the same thing when the horse already has learned it? Why is your horse refusing to do it?  That is the most important question.  Are you doing something different?  What are you doing that is not the same?  

Feel or watch what your horse does.  Is he able to perform the skill equally on both reins? (ideal)  If not, make a mental note to do some suppling, strengthening work on the weaker side.  Is it you?  (for right-handed people, the right hand tends to hold more, whereas the left hand gives more)

Session Length

Repeat 3 times in a training session but end on a good note: the horse is quiet, calm, even if you had to stop the new work.  That is ending on a good note.  Ask less, rather than more, if the horse is not responding as you want.  Between the repetitions lengthen stride, 2 point, grids, something very different.  Do conditioning work if the repetitions went well so that the horse is building up his strength.  Even stop and get off it; the results you obtained were momentous.

Rewards for the horse

Food is not necessary every time but helps in the beginning when doing groundwork or if the horse becomes anxious while ridden.  

Loose rein, a good stretch at walk, trot, or canter (no transition, just loosen the reins)

Move forward freely (after collection or complicated work, e.g. piaffe, half halt, canter to halt transitions)

Stroking the neck from poll to wither (not patting, which is a hit)

Scratching the wither

Uberstechen with one or both reins (give with the inside rein or both reins for a few (3) strides

Stop and look around.

Change the location where riding, on a long or loose rein, e.g. walk around a field after schooling in an arena (end of work reward)

Jump, trot poles  (if the horse enjoys jumping after intense schooling)  A change of pace.

Punishment for the horse

Slapping

Loud voice

Whistling (the horse will also slow down to a whistle)

Big kick to move away

Hitting with reins (over and under)

Working alone

Repetition (more than 3 times)

Training is fun.  If it isn’t fun, then don’t do it.  Read more, find out what it is that is wrong.  If you get stressed, frustrated.  Stop, do something easier.  If the horse just doesn’t respond, change what you are doing.  Do something the horse can do.  Rethink about what you are doing.  Chances are you are expecting too much for your skill level or the horse’s learning ability. 

All training should be according to the horse and rider combination.  But, generally, three repetitions for 3 days is a good starting point.  Some horses will take longer, others slightly less.  It depends on what is being asked, how it is being asked, the horse's history, and handling of the horse.

Inverted horse/Marigold

Marigold came back from training with a well developed lower neck muscle.  This just goes to show that even a horse that doesn't normally go inverted can be trained to go inverted.  In 2 days Marigold was moving better and not pushing with her lower neck.   She did this on her own.

The trainer called her "lazy".  When I loose schooled her she was zipping around like crazy.  No relaxation, no calmness, just running.  Half way through the session, she started to relax and listen to me. (session lasted 10 minutes).  Marigold changing how she moved had nothing to do with me.  It had gotten really smokey so I wasn't working her.  She changed in the paddock, which was interesting as she was in a huge field.

Marigold has also changed ...no long hard to catch but coming to me when she sees me.  Annie Alice would like to come, but I guess Marigold doesn't share.  It was difficult to see Marigold running away from me when I went to get her.  And the dancing around while tied was hard to see.  How does one teach a horse that normally stands quietly to dance?

Now to figure out where to go from here.

can get her hindleg underneath!!

inverted trotting

inverted trot...see how the neck is pushing forward?

well developed lower neck muscle.  It even makes her neck look short

but as you can see from here inverted isn't her conformation

showing a longer topline, now to build up her muscles

no muscle from the withers along the crest:  this winter 

Hooves

Hooves

 Lola Front

Lola side

Miss July front

Miss July hind

 Lola

Lola showing laminic rings

Alex

Alex

Alex:  white line disease

Alex

Peter Pan

I sent Peter Pan for training and decided that I would sell him as people were interested.  I didn't think he would be a good school horse/pony.  That means something as none of the school horses/ponies are your typical schoolies.  They choose to do lessons,  If the horse ddin't like the lessons, then I would use them.

He was sold to a person, who had ridden as a kid (not sure how long ago or how well, or for how long).  I got emails telling me how much she loved Peter Pan.  First, sign of incompatitbility:  love.  She loved that he came to the fence (an easy fix if your horse is not socialable).  In Peter Pan's case because he was given endless treats and had no manners it was a warning to me.  A horse coming to the fence to talk to you should not be a good reason to buy a horse. (and if you saw the fence you would be worried about the horse getting hurt).  It could also mean he is hungry.  Peter Pan is always hungry as he wasn't fed well as a youngster.

Another email told me that she was having trouble putting a bridle on him.  Ooops.  Can't bridle her horse?  Must be banging his teeth with the bit.  Banging teeth is a sure way to teach a horse to be difficult to bridle.  Anyone buying a just started horse should be able to bridle and unbridle a horse and to figure out what is wrong if there is a problem.

Another email told me that she was having trouble leading him from the field because the other horse was in heat, there was another horse calling to him.  Never had that problem before.  He was always willing to leave with me or one of my students.

My advice to her was to sell him.  She wasn't going to do him any favours keeping him becasue she couldn't handle him.  End of emails listing her complaints about Peter Pan.  I don't see things going well for him.  Too bad.  I told the trainer he wasn't for beginners. (he never would be for beginners).

What a shame.  Another person bought a horse she wished she could ride.

Selling/Buying a Horse

It is so hard to sell a horse.  Why?  Because I want the horse to go to someone that will do well with the horse.  I know my horse but I don't know the person interested so I have to listen to what they are saying.

I believe that a person should buy a horse they can ride now because they will not enjoy the horse.  Do you need a horse that you "fall in love with"?  No.  The horse you fall in love with is the horse that you wish you could ride, it isn't the horse you can ride.  Think about it.  Is it fair to the horse that you buy if you cannot ride it well?  No.  Isn't because the horse is not able to do what it can do.  Some horses will look after you, other horses, not so  much.  Those are the horses people fall off of and get hurt.

As Denny Emmerson has said numerous times, one needs a horse to ride and do everything with so that the rider gains confidence.  Confidence is the knowledge, feeling you can do it.  Doubt is not a good thing to have with a horse.  One must believe that she can do it.  Falling off, being run away with, hoping you live are not fun things to be repeated.  Kids learn to hold on tight...not good for becoming a supple, elastic, feeling rider.  Adults decide they have other things to do so don't ride.

Buying a horse you can ride gives you a horse you will fall in love with.  Maybe not when you go to look at the horse and try it out, but because you can do what you want with the horse you will come to love the horse.  That is the horse you miss when it has died.

Taking lessons in order to be able to ride the horse you bought...nope.  Too much horse.  Get a plainer horse.  There is more to riding and horse ownership than lessons (and competitng).

When you go look at a horse, don't expect to fall in love, expect to be able to walk, trot, and canter the horse, to be able to lead and groom the horse.  That is the most beautiful, wonderful horse of all.   If your riding skill is not up to doing that, then find a lesson programme with school horses.  Maybe not being able to canter is ok, if you can walk, and trot the horse.  Good natured horses are not pretty, but are priceless.  

The horses and ponies in the photos are not super expensive, but just plain nice.  With a bit of work, they became fantastic at their jobs.

Winter Pasture for Horses

Winter Pasture for Horses:  A Great Option for Winter Feeding

  Feeding horses in winter in Canada is an expensive proposition. Care for your horse will depend on temperatures, precipitation (type and the amount), and wind.  Each region has its own challenges.  Horse owners looking to keep horses outside, in a healthy environment that is also a benefit for the land and easy.  Look at winter pasture as a viable option. 

Roughage, usually grass or hay, is the most important feed for horses.  Digesting roughage keeps horses warm. Some years are difficult getting quality roughage.  Rain, too much or too little at the wrong time, too cool temperatures all make haying a challenge.  Add the cost of fuel, equipment, getting labour, exporting hay, and other crops that pay better:  these all add to the difficulties for a horse owner to affordable acquire hay.  

One option, researched extensively throughout North America, is leaving cattle on pasture all winter.  It can be either grass or a cereal crop, or grass specifically grown for winter feed;  the grass or cereal crops can be left standing or swathed.  Another term for saving feed out in the fields for winter feeding is "stockpiling".   

"In the fall plants accumulate non-structural carbohydrates (NSC) as a way to maintain itself over winter.  Where the NSC is stored will depend on the plant.  For instance, timothy stores its NSC in a corm under the ground.  Some plants are better at storing NSC than others.  Timothy is a good winter pasture grass as it is tall and tends to hold is Water Soluble Carbohydrates well,” explains Grant Lastiwka, P.Ag, Grazing/Forage/Beef Specialist of Alberta Ag Info Centre. 

Grant says,  "Just last weekend (January 19 weekend) I was snow blowing and found the grass underneath the snow to be still green and alive.  This is because the NSC acts like an antifreeze to prevent cell damage.  If the snow insulates enough and the NSC are high enough cell integrity are maintained.  It can even regreen in the spring and regrow from leaves, and tillers (plants within the plant) for a very early quick spring green up and growth." 

  What is needed for winter pasture 

  A fenced area with long grass (hay field or a pasture allowed to grow from mid-July to frost) is needed.  A water source, with electricity for the heater, and shelter (stand of 

B.Kinsey                   Winter Pasture     2

trees or shed).  Access to the field during the winter for putting out hay.  Do not expect the horses to paw through 60 cm of snow and do well.  Monitoring the horses condition and health.  Strip grazing, using electric fencing, can minimize wastage.   Moving fencing in three feet of snow may be a bit daunting.

  Pros of Winter Pasture

  The benefits of keeping a horse out in pasture for the winter are numerous.  The horses keep themselves fit moving from eating to sunbathing spots, to water, and back to the food.  Their bones and soft tissues strengthen using low impact, low intensity, long duration exercise.  All horses have equal access to feed. All the horses should be in good condition.  The horses are happier because they have the freedom to move, such as they are designed to be.  There is less bullying as the lessor horse can keep away from the dominant horse. The field is thinly fertilized and reseeded.  The next year (and subsequent years) grass crop will grow thickly and lush.  Harrowing the field will not necessary (as long as supplemented hay is spread out) in the spring.  

  Supplementing with Hay

 At some point in the winter, the field may run out of grazing or have so much snow that expecting the horses to paw for forage is ridiculous.  Put hay out in the field, again spread out so that field and horses get maximum benefit. Unroll round bales to spread manure and hay seeds;  it will, also, ensure all horses can eat their share.  Feeders pack the ground, concentrates the manure and wastes hay.  Lessor horses may not be able to eat their fill or eat in peace.

 Care of the Horses at Pasture

 A nutrient analysis of the grass will give information on the quality of grazing.  Supplementing may be necessary depending on analysis results and the horses condition, age, and body type.  Check the horses over looking for signs of injury, lameness, or just different normal.   When looking at body condition, remember there will always be at least one horse that does well.  Look at the lesser horses in the herd for condition.  Hooves need trimming.    Snow will not wear down hoofs.  Ideally, horses are barefoot for being out in the pasture. 

 The cons of keeping horses in winter pasture

 A longer walk out to see if the horses if you are not able to call them in. Haying may be a bit of a challenge.  It all depends on facilities, location and planning.  Hoping for the best does not work.

Take a page from ranchers.  Turn your horses out.  Top seed with no effort from yourself. Get incredible grass.  Keep your horses fit and sound, and healthy.  Spend your time having fun with the horses instead of on the tractor.  Enjoy walking among the herd.

References:

Grant Lastiwka, PAg

Grazing/Forage/Beef Specialist

Alberta Ag-Info Centre

Agruicultre and Rural Development

201 Provincial Building

5030-50 Street

Olds, Alberta  

grant.lastiwka@gov.ab.ca

Winter Grazing Options, February 2008, Manitoba Agriculture, Food and Rural Initiatives, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, and Manitoba Forage Council www.mbforagecouncil.mb.ca  and at www.manitoba.ca/agriculture

ww.agr.gc.ca/env/greencover-verdir

or phone 1 866 844 5620

 Harper, Dr. Frederick, Extension Specialist, University of Tennessee, Department of Animal Science, 

Winter Horse Feeding,  Voice, 2004

Feeding a Balanced Ration for competition horse

Excerpt from my Feeding assignment from Equine Nutrition through University of Guelph


I chose to use a Ration Balancer with the hay so that the horse would be eating as much hay as possible. He is in a stressful situation when competing and travelling therefore, at great risk to develop gastric ulcers, tying up or colic. Ideally, he would be on free choice hay at all times. Being able to eat hay constantly will ensure his well being. If necessary hay can be increased to 3% of his body weight or so. It is currently calculated at 2% of his bodyweight.

The ration balancer is being fed to offer vitamins and minerals he will not be getting in his hay. It is a concentrated feed and to be fed in small amounts, according to the bag’s instructions. The bags instructions for feeding must be followed so daily requirements for food, vitamins, and minerals are met. As completion season progresses the horse’s feed will be reevaluated to ensure all nutrients needs are met. The ration balancer can be increased another .5 kg.
Ration balancer required for the time away will be easy to transport. The hay will not be. Additional hay should be available for sale at the competition and can be blended in with the hay from home.

He is living outside without shelter in a field so hopefully he is getting a rainsheet or flysheet put on to protect him from the elements or the field is large enough that natural elements will provide some protection from wind and sun. It is spring and the temperatures are reaching 15o during the day so care must be taken as there is no shelter/building while he is at pasture. Monitoring his water and weight should be done regularly so that changes can be dealt with before problems develop.

Simplicity in feeding will ensure the staff follow feed instructions as the horse is boarded. The ration balancer can be fed either by the owner after the horse has worked or the staff can give it to the horse an hour after he is brought in.

I did not use the other options as the more complicated the less likely it will be done. Keep it simple and the horse will get what he needs. Purchasing, storing, and travelling with the feed will be easy as it is one bag. The hay provides most of the daily nutrients in excess of minimum daily amounts while the ration balancer provides the lacking 

Equine Parathyroidism: Too Much Phosphorous

Equine Parathyroidism:  Too Much Phosphorous

Barbara Kinsey

Introduction

Equine Parathyroidism is a recognized disorder in horses (Little, Redding, Spaulding, Dupree and Jones, 2000). It is also known as Miller’s Disease, or Big Head (Petalia, 2009, Kentucky Equine Research, 2013).  It is caused by feeding cereal grains without balancing the phosphorous (Crabbe, 2013) The feeding of processed feeds rather than the stable manager mixing grains has decreased the incidence of parathyroidism in horses.  Research into feeding horses has helped educate the managers of horses so that they are aware of the necessity of balancing feeds (Little, Redding, Spaulding, Durpree and Jones, 2000).

Define the problem

Too much phosphorous in the horse’s diet which will result in health issues in a period of months.  Pastures may be high in phosphorous.  This may be a result of chemical fertilizer applied to the fields (Crandall, 2016)  Wheat bran contains ten times more phosphorous than calcium. (Lenz, 2016).  A diet low in Vitamin D is also attributed to causing Secondary Parathyroidism (Capen & Rossel, 1989;  Sojka, et al, 2014).  A low calcium:high phosphorous ratio  in the feeding of the horse (Veterinary Treatments and Medications for Horsemen, 1977;  David, et al, 1997;  Little et al, 2000;  Kentucky Research Staff, 2013) causes this problem.  Feeding cereal grain, which is high in phosphorous without balancing with a high calcium feed will cause  secondary  parathyroidism in horses. (Veterinary Treatments and Medications for Horsemen, 1977) 

Clinical Signs of an Excess of phosphorous/Secondary Parathyroidism

The bones become weaker as the calcium is depleted.  Lameness, swelling in the bones and bone formation issues.  The horse may have a stiff movement (David et al. 1997)  The horse may have many little fractures in the long bones (David et al. 1997).  

The skull of the horse will show changes, which is where the “Big Head” name comes from. (Little, et al, 2000).  The horse may have trouble chewing due to changes in the skull configuration (Norton, 2013, Petalia, 2009)

Diagnosis is only after a other causes are ruled out.  A feed analysis, x-rays, bone density, and other tests are done to determine that the problem is caused by too much phosphorous (David et al, 1997).  

Management Strategies

Feed a balanced diet.  Attention must be paid to the calcium:phosphorous ratio.

Balance alfalfa with wheat bran or grass hay (forageplus staff, equisearch staff).  Beet pulp is balanced with bran by adding twenty-five per cent bran immediately prior to feeding. (Equisearch staff)  Grass is balanced in most areas.  In the Prince George area  grass hay is analyzed at 1:1 calcium:phosphorous. (Best, 2016).  In the UK, grass analysis shows a high calcium content (forageplus.co.uk).  Another method for avoiding a calcium phosphorous imbalance would be to restrict cereal grain by feeding hay.  Most horses do not require cereal grain added to their diet as they are able to maintain their condition (a Body score of 4-6 would be good).  Adding bran to working, growing or lactating mare’s diets would ensure that the calcium phosphorous levels are close to the ideal. (forageplus.co.uk staff)

Wheat bran contains an average of 2.4 grams of phosphorous per 220 kilograms of weight. (minimum of 1.71 grams to a maximum of 3.5 grams per 220 kilograms).  (forageplus.co.uk)

Offering a vitamin A, D, and E in the winter months will help.  Horses in Canada are not exposed to enough sunshine during the winter. (People need to supplement Vitamin D in winter as well).  Find out what minerals are deficient in your area.  (Crabbe, 2013, Crandell, 2013, Larson, 2015)

References

Best, C, DVM, in conversation with, November, 2016

Capen, C.C. and Rosol, T.J. (1986). Calcium-regulating hormones and disease of abnormal mineral metabolism.  In Kaneko, J.J. (ed.): Clinical Biochemistry of Domestic Animals, ed. 4. San Diego, CA:  Academic Press, pp. 678-752.

Crabbe, B. DVM, (2013)  Horse Health:  Vitamins and Minerals, http://www.equisearch.com/article/horse-health-vitamins-and-minerals-13326?ctid=2

Crandell, K. November, 2016, in conversation with

Crandell, K, (April 11, 2013) Vitamin D in Equine Diets, http://www.equinews.com/article/vitamin-d-equine-diets

David, J.B., Cohen, N.D. and Nachreiner, R (1997). Equine Nutritional Secondary Parathyroidism. The Comendium, 19(2), 1380-1388.

Norton, J. VMD. (2013). Your Horse’s Endocrine System, http://equimed.com/health-centers/general-care/articles/your-horses-endocrine-system

Equisearch Staff.  (2005), Feeding Brans. http://www.equisearch.com/article/feeding-brans?ctid=2

Forageplus Staff.  Should I feed bran to my horse.  https://forageplus.co.uk/feeding-wheat-bran-to-my-horse/

Kentucky Research Staff. (2013). Prevent nutritional secondary parathyroidism in horses.  www.equinews.com/article/prevent-nutritional-secondary-hyperparathyroidism-horses.

Larson, E, June 18, 2015, Do blanketed horses get enough vitamin D?http://www.thehorse.com/articles/35953/do-blanketed-horses-get-enough-vitamin-d

Lenz, T.R. Horse Health, www.aaep.org/info/horse-health?publication=2313

Little, D., Redding, W.R., Spaulding, K.A., Dupree, S.H., and Jones, S.L. (2000). Case report: unusual presentation of nutritional secondary parathyroidism in a paint colt. Equine Veterinary Education, 12, 6, 297-302

Petalia, (2009) Big Head (Nutritional Secondary Parathyroidism). www.petalia.com.au

Sojka, J., van der Kolk, H. and Toribio, R. (2014) Endocrine:  hyperparathyroidism. Vetstream Equis.

________Veterinary Treatments and Medications for Horsemen, Grapevine, Texas: Equine Research, 1977