Our Loafing Shed Plan
This will be ongoing as I will be stopping to go out and count boards and sheets of plywood and metal roofing. I will not be counting screws and nails.
Tools Required
hammer if nailing not screwing
screw driver with attachment for screwing roofing screws and/or boards
roofing screws... 1"? 1 1/2'?
nails: 4" (I prefer twisted as don't come out)
nails: 2" for the plywood
hurricane clips for the rafters attachment
Level
string
augur
tape measure
saw for cutting plywood along the roof line
Materials
14 - sheets 1/2 " plywood (walls)
2x6x12' boards (sides of walls, across the front)
3- 4x6x10' posts (back)
3 - 4x6 x12' posts (front)
2x6 x 16' boards (rafters) (2' on center)
2x4 x12' boards (purloins.. across the rafters for screwing in the roofing spaced 2' apart
16' metal roofing (30"?)
ladders or nail the 2x6 to the posts first and climb up
Procedure
1. level the ground. It helps. Use the tractor bucket in the spring or a bulldozer
Loafing shed should be on a high point but not on top of a hill, facing south as in winter this will be warmer. North wind is the coldest wind. South wind is the warmest. Horses prefer a south facing loafing shed.
2. measure out the post holes to auger.
2. measure out the post holes to auger.
Make sure it is square. It matters. The boards don't need to be cut if the distance between posts is accurate. 12' between post holes to the outside edge of the posts.
Back wall has about a 1' overhang which is working out for snow sliding off the roof.
lights under the eave Open at the sides at the area is protected by trees
2x6 boards spaced 2 feet apart adds to structure strength and give more nailing options for the plywood on the back. To make it even more stronger add boards or plywood to the inside...especially if you have a horse that rubs on the wall.
This loafing shed has the top angle on the side wall open. It has since been walled in to provide better structural strength. The back wall are 2x4s set 12 feet apart.
This loafing shed had another one added beside it for storing equipment. The join was not seamless. Better would have been to use the post and wall from the existing loafing shed. Lights inside the loafing shed and on the front.
3. Auger holes to 2' (we have sandy loam so no shifting).
Back wall has about a 1' overhang which is working out for snow sliding off the roof. 
lights under the eave Open at the sides at the area is protected by trees
2x6 boards spaced 2 feet apart adds to structure strength and give more nailing options for the plywood on the back. To make it even more stronger add boards or plywood to the inside...especially if you have a horse that rubs on the wall.
This loafing shed has the top angle on the side wall open. It has since been walled in to provide better structural strength. The back wall are 2x4s set 12 feet apart. This is also an error but so far the wall is standing. The snow does eventually slide off. Front posts are 4x6. It is open on the sides as the field(s) hold more that 4 horses. The sides have trees for a barrier from the wind. The overhand at the front was extended so all the horses could have shelter.
This loafing shed had another one added beside it for storing equipment. The join was not seamless. Better would have been to use the post and wall from the existing loafing shed. Lights inside the loafing shed and on the front.
This loafing shed has an inner liner to prevent the walls being pushed out. I used used wood (2x4's). Panels are to help tame a wildie.
3. Auger holes to 2' (we have sandy loam so no shifting).
measure for next hole 12' away. Spray paint or a stake to mark the spot.
When using 4x6 posts make sure the long side (6") side faces the back. Must be consistent. Will not have to dig holes at 6' mark if using smaller posts (2x4's). If the posts are not the exact same height it doesn't matter. Cut if really different in height. Header boards will hide the difference.
4. Set posts into the holes as dig. 6" side faces back. Use a level to ensure post is vertical. Tape measure for 12'. Set posts. Tamp dirt as fill. Even use water to pack the dirt.
5. Nail 2x6 x12' boards to the posts. Start low with 2' intervals to the top. Plywood is nailed to these boards. Plywood is last. (so can climb up the 2x6's)
6. 2 - 2x6 x12' boards aremnailed on each side of the posts at the topmost level on all four sides (or front and back sides). 2x6x12 boards nailed 2' lower on the front (stabilizes the rectangle). Plywood across the front makes the building more stable.
7. 2x6x16' rafters set at 2' on centre from the middle posts out. Use hurricane clips to hold in place or notch each board at both ends or toenail to 2x6 set between the rafters.
8. 2x4x12' boards nailed across the rafters starting at the front or the back
9. Metal roofing screwed to the 2x4's start at one side. Make sure the edges are square so the roof doesn't go on crooked. Screw to each 2x4. Patch holes with roof patch. Overlap the metal.
10. Nail the plywood to the walls. Make sure the plywood is square to the post. Nail at 2' intervals or closer. 2" spiral nails hold well. Plywood is vertical. It is easier to hold in place. Horizontal if you have a helper. Do not go past the headers and close off the eaves.
11. Ends above the plywood walls need to be cut on a diagonal. It should work out that one half goes on one side the other half goes on the other side. And a smaller piece on the front (or the back)
12. Line the inside if you would like or if you have a horse that cribs or rubs.
13. Stain with acrylic stain. I apply it with a roller and brush.
14. Add bedding, salt and minerals in buckets
When using 4x6 posts make sure the long side (6") side faces the back. Must be consistent. Will not have to dig holes at 6' mark if using smaller posts (2x4's). If the posts are not the exact same height it doesn't matter. Cut if really different in height. Header boards will hide the difference.
4. Set posts into the holes as dig. 6" side faces back. Use a level to ensure post is vertical. Tape measure for 12'. Set posts. Tamp dirt as fill. Even use water to pack the dirt.
5. Nail 2x6 x12' boards to the posts. Start low with 2' intervals to the top. Plywood is nailed to these boards. Plywood is last. (so can climb up the 2x6's)
6. 2 - 2x6 x12' boards aremnailed on each side of the posts at the topmost level on all four sides (or front and back sides). 2x6x12 boards nailed 2' lower on the front (stabilizes the rectangle). Plywood across the front makes the building more stable.
7. 2x6x16' rafters set at 2' on centre from the middle posts out. Use hurricane clips to hold in place or notch each board at both ends or toenail to 2x6 set between the rafters.
8. 2x4x12' boards nailed across the rafters starting at the front or the back
9. Metal roofing screwed to the 2x4's start at one side. Make sure the edges are square so the roof doesn't go on crooked. Screw to each 2x4. Patch holes with roof patch. Overlap the metal.
10. Nail the plywood to the walls. Make sure the plywood is square to the post. Nail at 2' intervals or closer. 2" spiral nails hold well. Plywood is vertical. It is easier to hold in place. Horizontal if you have a helper. Do not go past the headers and close off the eaves.
11. Ends above the plywood walls need to be cut on a diagonal. It should work out that one half goes on one side the other half goes on the other side. And a smaller piece on the front (or the back)
12. Line the inside if you would like or if you have a horse that cribs or rubs.
13. Stain with acrylic stain. I apply it with a roller and brush.
14. Add bedding, salt and minerals in buckets
Snow will not go into the loafing shed if it faces south. The opening at the back where the roof/eaves are must be left open for airflow. If the entire building is closed in there will be dead air space which is cold.
I have one loafing shed that faces east. The horses rarely use it compared to south facing loafing sheds. It gets snow in it.
Your hores will tell you if it is facing the correct direction. They will use it daily.
Clean out in the spring. Add more bedding. Deep litter in the winter will keep the horses warmer.
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