Thursday, 2 April 2020

2020





Covid-19. Another quarantine.  Earlier this year, it was ticks and before that ringworm.  All brought in by a young (too young to be without her mother) foal.  Poor thing.  She was in quarantine for 2 weeks, and instead of putting her in with a herd, I left her and the other foal in the quarantine paddock.  Good thing as it is 3 weeks for ringworm to show up.  In all, 8 horses had it—5 of mine.  I didn't touch 3 other boarders, so they didn't have anything.

It took quite a bit of touching for the other horses to get.  I used Miss July for lessons and worked with Gus, Marigold and Alex.  I am not surprised Gus got it the worst of them as he still is not quite up to par.  His coat isn't rough, but it isn't shiny.  Next year he will be better.

Covid-19 has resulted in the cancellation of lessons.  More income lost.  The boarders are paying, though.

Luca has not eaten a hole in the hay net.  Could it be because the hay isn't that great, so no rush to eat?  Kit is allowing him to share the bale with him.  I thought the bale (big square) would last a month.  Not sure now as I think this is the 3rd bale since the end of February.  The herd of 9 goes through a bale a week. They are in great shape.  Lily and Alex are a bit thin but not bad/scary thin.

The big square bales were cut from the middle to the end of August.  I guess this is what I should be looking for in hay now, as none of the fatties is fat. Not thin but not gaining weight.

The really loose nets are quite easy to put on the bales.  I think the white nets for a round bale will fit the square bales too.  They are a funny shape anyway.  Or else that is what they have been sending me.  The opening is the narrowest.  Better than the green nets.  They rot and are really heavy when wet or frozen.  The babies (3 boarders and Ziva) eat out of a green net as they are getting Ron's round bales.  The hay ended up being quite good as the leaves kept growing.  I think that is the orchard grass.  One good thing for it. Or that other grass my horses won't eat.






I bought 4 straw square bales for Petra's baby to lie in.  When I got it home saw it was oat straw... with the heads on it? I hope she doesn't stand there and eat it.  Will see.

Petra is due May 9 for foaling.  She was bred on June 1.  I hope she has it a bit later.  She is huge and softening and getting a big bag.  The snow is bound to start melting soon.  She is still in the herd.  It is too cold before the end of May to have a baby.








Wednesday, 9 October 2019

Norman

Ayna and Norman

Norman is not doing well for the last 2 years.  He has Cushing's so his hair is not shedding out.  I think his thermostat is not working as he doesn't sweat when hot.

His hind leg from when he hurt it years ago when he bolted and almost jumped a gate is bothering him a lot.  He is on Previcox every day.  A quarter.  Miss July is on a quarter as well.  It keeps him able to move.
Ayna and Norman

Today he came out with Marigold and Alex.  He wanted to be out of the field so I let him.  he moved sound.  Sometimes he even had a 1 hoof overtrick!!!  No wobble to the handle. he trotted sound as well.  Tracking up.

Ever since I made the appointment at the vet's to have him put down Norman has been doing well.  Before he was chasing Gus, biting and kicking him.  Not that he could really kick as his hindleg wouldn't extend back.  It is amazing to see what he is doing.  Before when he chased or ran he ended up being on 3 legs.  It was awful to see.  If he slipped on ice or got into deep snow he would have been in big trouble.  That is why the vet appointment to put him down.

It just shows it is all in the attitude, expectation of the person.  It is in Norman to expect the other horses to move away from him (Gus being slow so got bitten) when he approached.  It has nothing to do with size, strength,  but all in attitude.
After acquiring Dave and Diamond I suspect Norman was a wildie.  He has all their characteristics:  head, ewe neck, great moving, smart, great sense of self-preservation, smart, can figure things out, incredibly athletic.

Norman.  I have so many Norman stories.  A great pony who I now suspect was born wild.  he has many characteristics of Diamond and Dave and other wildies I have read about.  he is ewe necked, with a big head.  He has great movement, is very athletic, tough, game, never quits, .... all characteristics of wild horses that have been domesticated.  I forgot to smart with good sense of self-preservation.

Norman is still kind to kids.  He is an amazing horse (horse because Norman doesn't like being called a pony).  He will be greatly missed forever.  There can be no other Norman.

Norman with his friend Miss July (Gracie died last year.  Gracie was his best friend)
Norman with Alyna when she was 5? 6?
Norman 
Norman actually standing still in cross ties.  He used to levade when in cross ties without a kid around to groom him


Norman could go through the walkthrough at the house



Norman

Norman.  Starting to have soundness issues with his right hind

Norman bringing in the herd.  The horses kept an eye on Norman









More on Dave and Diamond




This summer, Dave and Diamond grew so much and filled out to be solid, muscled babies. And more.

Dave can tell a mature mare that she can't go there, push him around, or share his bucket.  A yearling telling an adult what to do?!  Diamond is the same.

Today Diamond sniffed noses with Marigold (because next week or so, they will be living together).  Diamond struck out and squealed.  A yearling?  No showing submission.  So different from domestic horses.

Diamond has learned to touch a cloth when she wants a treat.  Or when I say "touch".  She has learned that in 3 lessons, at irregular intervals.  I spend almost 5 minutes with her working on the clicker training.  I signed up for a clicker training course with Sandra Popema.  I bring them into the barn (which is interesting as they are cautious) together.  /Getting them into the stall has brought to my attention that they need to learn to go ahead.  I started Dave touching him with a stick, but he still wanted me to go into the strange space first.  Most likely, to see if there is danger, then I would be the one attacked, and he can turn and escape.  Diamond also has this thinking.

I put the halter on Diamond today in the stall with hardly a fuss.  I could have done it more carefully.  As I was doing it, I thought I could train her to put her nose into the halter.  My other horses volunteer it.


















Tuesday, 27 August 2019

Rewards to Use With Your Horse


Good horsemanship is taking the welfare of the horse into consideration.  Without the goodwill of the horse we would not be able to enjoy our work with the horse.  Horses are amazing creatures in that they allow us to do so many things with them.
How to tell if your horse is a jumper?  'the horse willingly goes over a jump.  In the beginning, it should be very low, with the horse preferably loose or at least on a lunge line.  A horse that likes jumping will not find a way around.
You can't make a horse jump once the fence gets higher.  Listen to your horse.  Some horses will willingly jump 4' but not 5'.  Horses are like people.  

Reward your horse for doing what you want.  Treats are good for in the beginning when learning but should be replaced by other rewards.
Rewards you can give your horse:
time off.  5 or 10 minutes break then go back.  Leave your horse alone if loose, when riding, loose rein.
Do something else that the horse can do
walk on a loose rein (long rein if your horse has issues)
trot or canter on a loose rein after doing something challenging at the trot or canter
do the opposite of what you were doing. eg leg yield at walk... loose rein at walk,  collected trot:  loose rein at trot

scratch on withers or preferred spot
stoke your horse's neck (long strokes)

Uberstrechen with one hand:  give with one rein (inside rein ideally) for several strides after the horse responds to the rein aid
relax your feel on the reins after asking for a transition, half halt.  Always.

After work feed your horse a treat.  My horses do not consider grazing time to be a treat.  They expect some alfalfa pellets in addition to the grass. (so they show me).  The great benefit of this is that it ensures you cool out your horse before dismounting.  The horse gets its concentrate (the pellets) and doesn't need to be fed again. (limit this to 5 pounds.  If your horse needs more considering up the hay ration).  The other horses in the barn do not kick their doors because they know it isn't their turn for feeding.  (if your horse kicks at the door then don't feed while kicking...be faster.  Eventually, your horse will realize food is coming). Feeding while kicking is encouraging the horse to kick by rewarding with food the kicking.

Let your horse roll after working.  The roll is a good massage.  If your horse is going into ta stall it will also stop the horse from rolling in his stall.  You really don't want that (that is how horses get cast)

Brush the dried sweat or hose off (depending on the weather and what you have for water temperatures).  One benefit is that your horse's coat won't fade.  I love a shiny horse.  Even with a full winter coat my horses shine.

shiny winter coat

stroking the neck rewards and relaxes Alex.  When this tense she was fed treats from the saddle.


even chestnuts can shine



Benefits of rewarding your horse while training:
*   training process goes faster
*  horse looks forward to work (not hard to catch)
* horse is happy. (that will be another article)

Downfalls of rewarding your horse while working
* indescriminate treats will teach bad manners.  Reward the behaviour no treats because horse is....... (fill in the blank)


Frequency of Rewards
*immediately after the horse responds give a reward. 
* in the beginning do not expect perfection, reward the attempt then up the expectation once the horse understands the aid
* change the reward to something less eg from treat with the word "good" to a scratch with "good" to uberstrechen without the word "good" (because you cannot talk in a dressage test and when jumping it might be difficult)
* immediately remains the response time no matter how experienced your horse is.  eg release the rein tension after a half halt in piaffe.


Checks
* check that you are releasing the rein enough (youngster to a loose rein, advanced half an inch)
* Follow the nod of the head exactly, without pulling (resisting) but exactly so the reins doesn't loop or interferes with the nod/movement of the horse
* problem behaviours are caused by the rider, handler.  Find out what the cause is.  Saddle fit, bridle fit, girth, rider not moving with the horse, too much grain, not enough exercise


more information

TRTmethod.com. Tristan Tucker. on YouTube also

"Unleashing Harmony: The Man Who Dances With Horses" on Slice Wild on YouTube. (Frederik Pignon)

Spanish Hofreitschule Wein- Lipizzanergestut Piber. www.srs.at















































Tuesday, 9 July 2019

Diamond and Dave: Wildies from Alberta

The stupid has been bred out of wild horses.  So I am finding out with Diamond and Dave.  Diamond is more flightly, shy than Dave, yet today she came up to smell me.  She is enjoying scratches.  Touching the base of her ears was possible today.  I go too far and she moves away but is not afraid.  Just not willing to be touched there.

Diamond:  bay roan or red roan filly by a red roan stallion out of a bay mare
2019 has a brother (full). Half sister to Dave
Dave:  brown gelding by a red roan stallion out of a bay mare.  half brother to Diamond

Weight for deworming is 700 pounds.  haven't been able to do deworming yet.  Maybe Dave as he liked the apple juice I trained him with.  Definately not Diamond as she won't let me touch her mouth.

Dave is eating treats by hand.  Diamond resists.

They are eating a lot.  They really want grass.  I don't see any digestion issues from the move from the paddock by the barn to behind the house.  Leading them here was difficult as they were resistant. I must lead them up to the barn to spend time in the stall.

I have only had them since June 26....less than 2 weeks.  So happy to have them.  Thrilled.

Hay: some thoughts

Hay:  some thoughts



Feeding Hay to Horses

  1. 1-2% of body weight:  1 lb feed to 100 pounds of body weight.  Use a weight tape to determine weight:  over the front of the withers or behind the withers for the tape to go around the horse.  Pull tight.
  2. Increase hay when the temperature drops.  About -15 or so increase the feed.  
  3. If feeding with a slow feeder net it will be similar to forking hay to the horses but gives them access all day (better for the horses).  No blankets, shoes, or halters on the horses.  Additional hay will need to be fed loose when it gets -20 and colder (when the horses lose weight or are cold and hungry).
    1. If no slow feeder need the horses will go through the hay faster, and the loose hay will need to be forked up so it isn’t wasted.  I found the 6 horses went through a bale in 3 days, rather than 6 or 7 days in winter.
4   The white slow feeder nets are the most durable, easy to work with.  I use the Large on my 5x5 bales (1200 lbs.)
5.  Put the hay on fresh snow, in different spots to prevent manure build-up. (grass will grow better if a fresh spot is used).  Feed in the field to keep the paddock clean and to give the horses exercise.  
6.  If forking the hay put it on fresh snow and spread it out 10’ between piles and double the piles.  If you have a really aggressive horse then wider apart.  A calf sled makes an excellent hay mover.
7.  Horses that don’t gain weight, eat only enough will do better on alfalfa mix hay.  Look up gastric ulcers, Dr Kerry Ridgeway.  A lot of horses have gastric ulcers, including pleasure horses.  
8.  Aggressive horses:  take out of the herd for a while.
9.  Water:  heated/warmed water in the winter.  Available at all times so the less dominant horses can drink their fill.
10.  Feeding in winter is not like in the summer because of the temperatures.  Have extra hay in case of early winter, late spring.  This year haying has not started and it is the second week in July.  Maybe next week if the rain stops and the ground drys well.
11.  Beet pulp soaked (1 beet pulp:3 water will add minerals, fiber to the diet).  Alfalfa cubes are better than pellets as long as the horse doesn’t choke (has good teeth and not rushed) otherwise pellets.  Weigh the alfalfa and beet pulp so you know how much you are feeding.  
12. Buying rounds:  buy from a farmer you know puts up good hay.  You can buy a corer to check the inside of the bale.  Smell it for mould.  Heavier than the other bales is not good. 
Brent Stewart in Berwyn, AB. 708 338 3663 will haul hay north.  He grows a lot.  
13.  Net wrapped hay will ship better.  Hardcore bales are heavier than soft bales.  
14.  Grass hay or alfalfa-grass mix is good.  Horses don’t like orchard grass or reed canary grass. Nor ryegrass (high sugar).  Clover:  white, red ok if allowed to dry.
15. By the ton or bale doesn’t make much difference in the price unless the truck is run over a scale. 


What I have found:
5x5/1200 lb. round bale lasts 6 horses 1 week or less if cold.  Therefore I need 5 round bales a month for 6 horses.  Hay from October to May: 8 months if I have good pasture for all 6 horses.    Hay eating slows in May as the grass grows (which slows the grass growing so I have a summer pasture and a winter pasture.  I move the horses to the summer field on the first of July.  Sometimes the grass doesn’t grow much in the winter pasture which means the horses will eat more hay in October.  The horses will paw through the snow until it gets 18” high.  Then it is too deep.  

300 pounds of hay a week/horse?  x 4= 1200 x 8 months = 9600 lbs a winter = 4.35 tons (metric) 4.2 tons (Canadian)

I have a chart that tells you approximately how big a bale weighs by its size (5x5 is 1200lb, 4x4 is 400 - 600 lb,   Your hay will be weighed at a scale so you will know the weight.  (you are getting it hauled up?). 
It also matters if it was a dry or wet year.  Last year was dry so hay was lighter.  Age of the hay too.  

Unless they are under a roof or a very very good tarp it is best not to stack them but rather put them in rows end to end and leave a space between each row..reason for this is in the fall it usually is  wet and damp just before things freeze up and if you stack your bales without covering them they freeze hard and it makes the string very hard to get off as well as it creates a lot of frozen waste…also when it warms up they now become a rather large pile of compost if left that way for long…in a barn I've piled them on there ends two bales high and the top one on its side…it fills space well this way but if your tarping them outside a pyramid formation will shed the water best…just make sure you tie it down well..used tires hanging off each side work well..hope that helps
https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-best-way-to-stack-round-bales-of-hay






Strapping down hay
tie down straps
1 per bale across the trailer/bale and 2 lengthwise :  for 5 bales:  5 straps


How to tell good bales from bad:  
1.  Good keeps its shape, bad squishes.  (hay with no stems will flatten and be hard to haul as it is soft)
 2.  Smell

Wildies in Alberta, Sundre area

Friday, 19 October 2018

How to Train a Horse



How to Train a Horse

























Introduction
Training a horse is fun.  The more skills your horse has, the more enjoyable the horse will be to have around.  Every time you interact with your horse, you are training the horse.  The trainer you sent your horse to can only do so much.  You may be counter training your horse if the horse behaves poorly after several months after returning from the trainer.  It is you, not the trainer.  


Explanation
Horses learn best with positive and negative reinforcement.  Punishment training creates a fearful or, worse, could not care less horse (learned helplessness).  

Positive reinforcement is where a reward is given to the horse:  treat, scratch, rest, click.
Negative reinforcement is where the reward is the removal of pressure, touch.  Pressure/touch should be appropriate to elicit a response, with no overreaction or lack of reaction. It takes a skilled person to know how much to use.  How much will also vary with the horse, that particular day, that particular session, that particular time, so the trainer needs to be aware and adjust her touch?

Horses trained with positive and negative reinforcement learn rapidly, calmly, and without fear.  They are willing to learn.  The horse will focus on the trainer rather than outside influences (e.g. noise, grass, birds, etc.)

Positive reinforcement forms vary with the horse (what the horse considers to be a reward), situation, and what is being trained.
The first reward is usually food.  Most horses like food. Finding the food the horse prefers may be a challenge.
The most important rule for using food rewards is that the food is immediate, not gratuitous, and small.  Some horse may become pushy and less than polite in accepting food rewards.  In this case, another reward should be found.  

Punishment is reserved for dangerous behaviour.  Biting, kicking, squishing you are not acceptable at any time.  It is best to stop this behaviour before connection occurs (horse snaps at you but does not connect, swings a hindleg at you, but again, does not connect.  Punish the horse:  slap, yell, chase off (even all three).  You want the horse to learn that this is not acceptable behaviour.  Don’t make excuses for why the horse bit or kicked you.  It is not acceptable.  And stop whatever it is that you are doing to make a horse bite/kick you!  You are training your horse to become dangerous.  Once a horse learns a skill, it doesn’t forget it.  It will reoccur in the future.

Know what it is you want to train.  Read up on the aids, what it looks like, what horses doing it, even if you have done it once or twice or more in the past.  Maybe this time, you will learn something that makes training your horse easier.

Break down what you are teaching into baby steps.  Write the steps down.  Write down the mistakes the horse may make.  Write down the corrections to the mistake.  Find alternate ways to teach the skill.

What does the horse need to know before the new skill?  How well does the horse perform it?  The pre-knowledge skill does not have to be 100% consistent.  Maybe 50% consistent?

For example, to perform a turn on the forehand:  the horse needs to stop and respect the stopping aids to some extent; the horse needs to respond to leg aids. (turn on the forehand is good for confirming the leg aids and the halt aids.


"Mistakes" of the Horse 
The horse really hasn’t a clue what you want, but good-naturedly, usually, tries to accommodate the rider.   The horse is not “bad”, “ignoring you”, or some other term.  The horse just does not understand.  It is a rider problem, not a horse.

For example, if the horse walks forward when the leg is applied in turn on the forehand. The horse is responding as he has learnt: leg means to go.  The horse is supposed to be learning to go sideways with the hindquarters, not forward.  
The rider was too slow or too inadequate with the stop aid once the horse moved.  The aids are given in sequence:  leg, hand, relax, repeat for the next step.  Simultaneous aids will confuse the horse.  (Principles of Learning).  

loose in the arena;  the first stage
Once the horse learns the first concept, more can be expected from the horse (after the third day).  

For example, once the horse moves to one side with the hindquarter, the horse is then expected to cross the hindleg in front of the other hindleg (turning to the right, the left hind leg crosses the right hind leg).  The rider will feel the horse’s backlift when this happens.  (exciting)  
It is not fair to the horse to expect the horse to cross legs in the beginning.  It is nice, but not expected. 
 A skilled rider may achieve more sooner.  A flexible horse may be able to cross from the beginning.  

The horse should always be willing to move forward after a training session.  
In turn, on the forehand, for example, after the horse stops, the rider should ask the horse to walk on to maintain forward motion.  
The repeat, the rider stops the horse and asks.  It is best if the rider is organized before stopping so the halt is limited and the horse remains willing to move.

Each training session is limited to 3 times, for 3 days.  Some horses will respond faster, so the repetitions can be reduced, or more can be expected.  Caution should be used in case the horse doesn’t really understand what he is supposed to do.

Ask for the skill to be performed in different areas of riding, right from the beginning.  Then, change where you ride and ask for the new skill.  Raise the bar, and expect more from the horse.  For example, you can do a “working turn on the forehand” where the horse’s inside front leg walk a small circle with turn on the forehand.  

If the horse is sticky, it is best not to insist the horse does what you want.  The horse is saying he doesn’t want to do it (politely).  It is up to you, the trainer, to figure out why.  Too many repetitions?  Too many of the same thing when the horse already has learned it? Why is your horse refusing to do it?  That is the most important question.  Are you doing something different?  What are you doing that is not the same?  

Feel or watch what your horse does.  Is he able to perform the skill equally on both reins? (ideal)  If not, make a mental note to do some suppling, strengthening work on the weaker side.  Is it you?  (for right-handed people, the right hand tends to hold more, whereas the left hand gives more)

Session Length
Repeat 3 times in a training session but end on a good note: the horse is quiet, calm, even if you had to stop the new work.  That is ending on a good note.  Ask less, rather than more, if the horse is not responding as you want.  Between the repetitions lengthen stride, 2 point, grids, something very different.  Do conditioning work if the repetitions went well so that the horse is building up his strength.  Even stop and get off it; the results you obtained were momentous.

Rewards for the horse
Food is not necessary every time but helps in the beginning when doing groundwork or if the horse becomes anxious while ridden.  
Loose rein, a good stretch at walk, trot, or canter (no transition, just loosen the reins)
Move forward freely (after collection or complicated work, e.g. piaffe, half halt, canter to halt transitions)
Stroking the neck from poll to wither (not patting, which is a hit)
Scratching the wither
Uberstechen with one or both reins (give with the inside rein or both reins for a few (3) strides
Stop and look around.
Change the location where riding, on a long or loose rein, e.g. walk around a field after schooling in an arena (end of work reward)
Jump, trot poles  (if the horse enjoys jumping after intense schooling)  A change of pace.

Punishment for the horse
Slapping
Loud voice
Whistling (the horse will also slow down to a whistle)
Big kick to move away
Hitting with reins (over and under)
Working alone
Repetition (more than 3 times)

Training is fun.  If it isn’t fun, then don’t do it.  Read more, find out what it is that is wrong.  If you get stressed, frustrated.  Stop, do something easier.  If the horse just doesn’t respond, change what you are doing.  Do something the horse can do.  Rethink about what you are doing.  Chances are you are expecting too much for your skill level or the horse’s learning ability. 

All training should be according to the horse and rider combination.  But, generally, three repetitions for 3 days is a good starting point.  Some horses will take longer, others slightly less.  It depends on what is being asked, how it is being asked, the horse's history, and handling of the horse.







more information

TRTmethod.com. Tristan Tucker. on YouTube also

"Unleashing Harmony:The Man Who Dances With Horses" on Slice Wild on YouTube. (Frederik Pignon)